The common dilemma for orchid owners begins the moment the final flower drops from the tall structure, known as the flower spike or flower stem. Its fate—to be cut or left alone—is the most frequent post-bloom question. The decision is not universal, but depends on the specific variety, the plant’s overall health, and the current condition of the spike itself. Understanding the biology of this stem is the first step in encouraging your orchid to rebloom.
Assessing the Spike: When Cutting is Necessary
The visual condition of the flower spike is the most immediate indicator of whether a cut is required. If the spike has turned entirely yellow, brown, or black, the plant has signaled that the structure is no longer functional. This discoloration indicates the plant has withdrawn all water and nutrients, meaning the stem is dead and will never produce new flowers.
The spike should be removed completely by cutting it near the base of the plant. Removing a dead spike prevents disease or fungal infection, directing the plant’s energy toward new leaf and root growth. Conversely, if the flower spike remains green and plump after the blooms fade, it is still biologically active and retains the potential to flower again, particularly on a common Phalaenopsis (moth orchid).
Cutting Techniques for Encouraging Rebloom
For the Phalaenopsis orchid, a green spike allows a choice between two primary cutting strategies. One technique encourages a quick rebloom by cutting the spike just above a node, which appears as a small, triangular bump covered by a bract. This cut is typically made above the second or third node from the base, below where the last flower bloomed. The node contains meristem cells capable of developing into a secondary flower spike or a small plantlet known as a keiki.
While cutting above a node can yield a new, smaller spray of flowers within a few months, it draws energy from the plant and may result in a weaker subsequent bloom. The alternative method is to cut the green spike low, removing it entirely just above the base of the plant.
Cutting the spike near the base conserves the plant’s energy, allowing it to focus on strengthening its root system and producing new leaves. This approach promotes overall plant health and ensures a more vigorous, primary bloom the following season. Growers often prefer this low cut for younger or weaker plants to ensure they have enough stored energy for a strong vegetative cycle.
Stem Management Based on Orchid Variety
The correct post-bloom care is entirely dependent on the orchid’s specific genus, as not all flower spikes are designed to rebloom. The Phalaenopsis is an exception to the rule because of its monopodial growth habit, meaning it grows upward from a single stem and can rebloom from the same spike. Most other popular orchids have different care requirements that must be followed once the flowers drop.
Orchids like Cattleya and Cymbidium are sympodial, meaning they grow horizontally and produce flowers from a new growth, or pseudobulb, each year. For these varieties, the flower spike will not rebloom and will naturally dry up once the flowers are spent. The entire spike should be cut off at the base once the blooms have faded and the stem starts to discolor.
The Dendrobium orchid presents a unique situation, as many varieties produce flowers directly from cane-like stems called pseudobulbs. After flowering, the entire cane should not be removed, even if it looks spent. These canes function as energy and water storage organs and must remain attached for several years to support the orchid’s future growth and flowering cycles.
Essential Tools and Sterilization Protocol
Any time a cut is made into plant tissue, it creates an open wound through which pathogens can enter the plant’s vascular system. It is necessary to use a sharp, sterile tool for pruning to ensure a clean cut that minimizes tissue damage and reduces the risk of infection. Recommended tools include razor blades, sharp shears, or snips, which prevent the crushing of stem tissue caused by dull tools.
Sterilization of the cutting tool must be done before making any cuts to prevent the transfer of viruses or bacteria between plants. One method is wiping the blade with a cotton ball soaked in 70% to 100% isopropyl alcohol and allowing it to air-dry. Alternatively, the metal blade can be heated for a few seconds in a flame until it is hot, which instantly kills any surface pathogens.