The Anthurium, often called the Flamingo Flower, is a popular houseplant that occasionally develops brown leaves. When this discoloration occurs, the answer is straightforward: brown leaves should be cut off. Addressing the browning involves a two-part process: removing the damaged tissue and then diagnosing the underlying cause to prevent future issues.
Why and How to Remove Brown Leaves
Removing compromised leaves directs the plant’s energy reserves toward producing new, healthy growth instead of maintaining dying tissue. A fully browned leaf no longer contributes to photosynthesis. Furthermore, dead or decaying foliage can become an entry point for fungal diseases and pests, which thrive in moist organic matter.
For proper removal, use clean, sharp cutting tools, such as sterilized shears or scissors. Sterilizing the blades with rubbing alcohol or a 10% bleach solution prevents the transfer of pathogens from previous cuts or other plants. This step is important if you suspect the browning is due to a bacterial or fungal infection.
Make the cut as close to the main stem or base of the plant as possible, taking care not to damage surrounding healthy tissue. If a leaf is only partially brown, such as only on the tips, trim just the damaged portion. Fully brown or crispy leaves should be removed entirely. Dispose of the removed material promptly, especially if disease is a concern.
Diagnosing the Cause of Browning
Removing brown leaves only fixes the symptom, so identifying the underlying cause is essential for the plant’s long-term health. The appearance and location of the browning often provide clues about the specific environmental stressor.
Watering issues are the most common culprits, manifesting differently depending on the cause. Overwatering leads to root rot, where roots decay and leaves often turn yellow before the tips or edges turn soft and brown. Conversely, underwatering causes leaves to lose turgor pressure, resulting in a brown, crispy, and papery texture, often starting at the tips and edges. Check the soil moisture several inches down to determine the specific problem.
Anthuriums require high ambient moisture, and low humidity is a frequent cause of leaf crisping. If brown, crispy edges appear on otherwise healthy leaves, the air may be too dry, especially during winter when indoor heating is active. Improper light exposure is another potential cause. Direct, intense sunlight can cause leaf scorching, which presents as bleached, brown, or burnt patches on the leaf surface.
Chemical imbalances, such as fertilizer burn, can also lead to browning. Over-fertilizing causes a buildup of mineral salts in the soil, which draws water out of the leaf cells, resulting in brown tips and edges. A nutrient deficiency, such as a lack of potassium, can cause yellow or brown edges with spots between the veins.
Establishing Optimal Anthurium Care
To prevent browning from recurring, establish a consistent care routine that mimics the Anthurium’s native tropical environment. A proper watering schedule is foundational: allow the top inch or two of the soil to dry out before watering thoroughly until water drains from the bottom of the pot. This prevents the root zone from remaining saturated, which drives root rot.
Maintaining a humidity level of 50% or higher is highly beneficial. Methods to increase moisture include placing the plant on a pebble tray, grouping it with other plants, or using a dedicated room humidifier. Ensure the plant receives bright, indirect light, as this supports robust growth and flowering without the risk of leaf scorch.
During the active growing season, typically spring and summer, feed the plant with a balanced, water-soluble fertilizer. Dilute the fertilizer to half the recommended strength to avoid salt buildup and fertilizer burn. Anthuriums thrive in a well-draining, chunky potting mix, often including orchid bark and perlite, which ensures good aeration and prevents excessive moisture retention.