Preparing strawberry plants for winter is necessary for perennial fruit management, influencing the patch’s health and productivity the following year. Preparation involves renovating foliage and protecting plant crowns from winter damage. This autumn work aims to maintain dormancy and shield growth points from freezing and thawing soil temperatures. Successful winterization ensures plants conserve energy reserves for a robust spring crop.
Determining Your Strawberry Type
The decision to cut back strawberry foliage depends entirely on the variety being grown, as different types have distinct fruiting cycles and energy requirements. Strawberry plants are broadly categorized into three types based on how they form flower buds. Understanding your variety is the first step in proper winter preparation.
June-bearing varieties produce one concentrated crop over a two-to-three-week period, typically in late spring or early summer. These plants form the buds for the next year’s fruit during the previous fall. They benefit significantly from renovation after fruiting is finished (often late July or early August). Renovation clears old leaves, encourages new growth, and helps them prepare for dormancy by focusing energy on root and crown development.
Everbearing and day-neutral varieties produce multiple smaller harvests throughout the growing season, continuing to fruit until the first hard frost. Because these types need their leaves to continuously photosynthesize and produce energy, they should not be cut back severely. For these varieties, the focus is simply removing dead, damaged, or diseased foliage before winter.
The Process of Cutting Back Strawberry Foliage
Cutting back foliage, known as renovation mowing, is reserved for June-bearing strawberries and should be done promptly after the final harvest. The ideal time is typically late summer, often August. Delaying the process reduces the time plants have to regenerate new leaves before winter dormancy, which can significantly reduce the following year’s yield.
The technique involves removing all old leaf growth while protecting the crown, the central part of the stem where new growth originates. Use hedge shears, hand clippers, or a lawnmower set high for larger patches. The foliage should be cut down to a height of one to one and a half inches above the crown, ensuring the crown remains intact.
After cutting, all plant debris must be thoroughly raked and removed from the patch. This cleanup prevents pests and fungal diseases from overwintering in the old leaves. Removing the debris promotes better air circulation and allows the plant to focus energy on growing a fresh, healthy set of leaves before cold weather begins.
Post-Pruning Winter Protection
After foliage renovation or cleaning, mulching is required for all strawberry plants in regions with freezing temperatures. The primary purpose of this winter cover is to insulate the soil and prevent repeated freeze/thaw cycles. These fluctuations cause soil expansion and contraction (heaving), which can lift shallow crowns out of the ground.
Suitable mulching materials are light and airy, providing insulation without smothering the plants. Use clean, weed-free straw, pine needles, or marsh hay, and avoid materials containing weed seeds.
The mulch should be applied after the ground has frozen to a half-inch depth, or when daytime temperatures consistently remain in the low 20s Fahrenheit. Applying the mulch too early can cause the plants to rot or prevent them from properly hardening off.
Apply the protective layer loosely over the plants to a depth of four to six inches, accounting for winter compaction. In the spring, when new growth emerges, partially rake the mulch back into the aisles. This allows the plants to start growing while the remaining mulch helps moderate soil temperature and keeps the berries clean.