My Kalanchoe Is Leggy: How to Prune and Care for It

A Kalanchoe plant with stretched, sparse growth and elongated stems is described as “leggy.” This common issue indicates the plant needs more optimal growing conditions. Addressing and preventing legginess helps maintain a compact shape and promotes healthy, vibrant foliage.

Understanding Leggy Kalanchoe Growth

Kalanchoe plants primarily develop leggy growth due to insufficient light, a process known as etiolation. When a Kalanchoe lacks adequate sunlight, it stretches its stems to reach for a light source, resulting in long, thin, weak growth with widely spaced leaves.

Beyond light, other factors can contribute to a Kalanchoe becoming leggy. Overwatering can lead to root rot or wilting, causing spindly growth. Conversely, underwatering can also cause the plant to search for more light to compensate for a lack of moisture. Excessive nitrogen fertilizer can promote lush, weak vegetative growth instead of compact, sturdy stems.

Pruning Your Leggy Kalanchoe

Pruning a leggy Kalanchoe helps restore its desired shape and encourages bushier growth. The ideal time to prune is after the plant has finished its blooming cycle, in late winter or spring. This timing allows the plant to direct its energy into new vegetative growth rather than flower production.

Begin by using sharp, clean pruning shears or scissors for precise cuts and to prevent disease. Identify the elongated, leggy stems that have sparse foliage. Make cuts just above a leaf node, which is a small bump on the stem where a leaf or branch emerges. New growth will sprout from these nodes, leading to a fuller plant.

Remove anywhere from one-third to two-thirds of the length of the leggy stems. Be careful not to remove more than one-third of the entire plant at one time to avoid stressing it. Pruning rejuvenates the plant, encourages more branching, and can lead to more abundant flowers in subsequent blooming seasons.

Propagating Kalanchoe Cuttings

The stems removed during pruning can be used to propagate new Kalanchoe plants. Select healthy, non-flowering stems a few inches long with at least two leaves. Remove any leaves from the lower portion of the cutting, exposing a few nodes.

After taking the cuttings, allow them to “callus” by leaving them in a dry area for one to three days. This drying period forms a protective layer over the cut end, which helps prevent rot and disease once planted. While optional, dipping the callused end in rooting hormone powder can promote faster and healthier root development.

Plant the prepared cuttings into a well-draining soil mix, such as specialty succulent and cactus soil, or a mix of peat moss and sand/perlite. Insert the callused end of each cutting into the soil, ensuring at least one node is buried. Place the potted cuttings in a location with bright, indirect light and water sparingly, allowing the soil to dry out between waterings. Roots form within 15-20 days, after which you can care for them as mature plants.

Preventing Legginess Through Proper Care

Providing optimal growing conditions prevents Kalanchoe plants from becoming leggy. Bright, indirect light is essential; Kalanchoes thrive with at least six hours of light daily. Placing the plant near an east- or south-facing window, where it receives gentle morning sun or ample indirect light, is ideal. If natural light is limited, grow lights can supplement exposure for 12 to 14 hours daily.

Proper watering practices also support a Kalanchoe’s overall health and compact growth. Allow the soil to dry out completely between waterings to prevent root issues, as Kalanchoes are succulents and store water in their leaves. Indoor Kalanchoes often need water every 10 to 12 days, but checking the soil moisture with your finger before watering is recommended.

During the active growing season, a balanced fertilizer supports robust growth, but avoid excessive nitrogen, which leads to elongated, weak stems. Regular, light pinching or trimming of stem tips every two to three months encourages branching and a bushier form. Rotating the plant periodically ensures all sides receive even light exposure, preventing it from leaning or stretching towards a single light source.

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