Mohair is a natural fiber recognized for its distinctive qualities and luxurious feel. This versatile material is sought after in various textile applications due to its unique characteristics.
The Angora Goat
Mohair fiber comes exclusively from the Angora goat. These goats originated in Asia Minor, specifically the province of Angora, now Ankara, on the central Anatolian Plains of Turkey. Angora goats have been raised for their long, white fleece since at least the fifth century BC. They are generally smaller than other domestic goat and sheep breeds, possessing horns and long, drooping ears.
Angora goats produce a continuously growing fleece, known as mohair. This hair grows at a rate of approximately 2 to 2.5 centimeters per month. Unlike sheep, which produce wool and are typically shorn once a year, Angora goats are usually shorn twice annually. This biannual shearing yields around 1.2 to 2.5 kilograms of fleece per animal, with some producing up to 5 kg annually. Shearing is also important for the goats’ health, preventing issues like matting and flystrike.
The fleece of the Angora goat differs from that of sheep in its structure. While both mohair and wool are composed of keratin protein, mohair fibers have scales that are less developed and lie flatter, resulting in a smoother surface. The fiber diameter of mohair ranges from 25 to 40 microns, similar to some types of wool, but its unique properties set it apart.
Unique Qualities of Mohair
Mohair possesses several distinct properties that contribute to its value in the textile industry. One of its most recognized attributes is its natural luster, often described as a “sheen” or “diamond fiber,” which allows it to reflect light directly. This characteristic enhances the vibrancy of dyed mohair, as the fiber takes dye exceptionally well.
The fiber is also known for its strength and durability. Mohair can be bent or twisted without causing damage to the fiber, making it resilient to wear and tear. It also exhibits good elasticity, capable of stretching up to 30% and then returning to its original shape, which helps garments resist wrinkling.
Mohair offers excellent insulating properties, providing warmth in colder conditions while also having moisture-wicking capabilities that keep it cool in warmer weather. Additionally, mohair resists felting more than wool due to its smoother fiber surface. These qualities make mohair a desirable material for items such as sweaters, scarves, upholstery, carpets, and even doll wigs.