Winged Sumac, scientifically known as Rhus copallinum, is a shrub or small tree native to North America whose fruit is entirely safe for consumption. The plant is prized for the small, fuzzy, reddish fruits it produces, which are technically called drupes. These drupes are used to create a refreshing, tart beverage and a vibrant spice, making the species a valuable resource for foragers and cooks alike. This culinary use depends entirely on correctly identifying the plant to avoid its toxic relatives.
Identifying Winged Sumac and Toxic Look-Alikes
Winged Sumac must be correctly identified to ensure safety, as its name is often confused with Poison Sumac (Toxicodendron vernix). A defining characteristic of Winged Sumac is the presence of a “winged rachis,” which is a noticeable leafy material running along the central stalk between the pairs of leaflets. Its leaves are compound, consisting of 9 to 23 leaflets, and it thrives in dry, disturbed soils and open areas.
The fruit of Rhus copallinum is another reliable identifier, presenting as dense, upright clusters of small, fuzzy, crimson-red drupes at the terminal ends of the branches. This appearance sharply contrasts with that of the dangerous Poison Sumac, which grows exclusively in wet, swampy areas. Poison Sumac produces smooth, greenish-white to ivory-white berries that hang in loose, drooping clusters from the leaf axils, not at the branch tips. Poison Sumac also lacks the winged rachis, having a smooth leaf stalk, and its leaves typically consist of 7 to 13 leaflets with smooth edges.
Preparing the Edible Drupes
The flavor of sumac comes from the fine, reddish hairs covering the drupes, which contain malic acid, the same compound found in apples. Harvesting should occur in late summer or early fall when the fruit clusters, often called “bobs,” are a vibrant red color. Collect the drupes before heavy rainfall, as water can wash away the water-soluble malic acid, significantly diminishing the flavor.
To process the drupes for a beverage, the clusters should be steeped in cold water instead of hot water. Using cold water extracts the malic acid without leaching bitter tannins from the seeds and inner parts of the fruit. After soaking, the liquid should be strained multiple times through a fine mesh sieve or cheesecloth to remove the tiny hairs and seeds. This process yields a tart, pinkish liquid known traditionally as “sumac-ade.”
For use as a spice, the harvested drupes are dried thoroughly and then ground to separate the flavorful outer coating (pericarp) from the hard inner seed. This drying requires low heat or air drying to prevent loss of volatile compounds and ensure the spice remains vibrant. The resulting coarse, reddish powder is the sumac spice.
Flavor Profile and Culinary Applications
The flavor profile of Winged Sumac is distinctly tart and acidic, often described as having a bright, lemony taste that is less intensely sour than actual lemon juice. This acidity makes the plant a versatile ingredient in both beverages and savory cooking. The tartness provides a clean, fruity note, making it a suitable substitute for citrus in many recipes.
The most common application is sumac-ade, a refreshing, non-alcoholic drink that can be sweetened to balance the intense sourness. Beyond beverages, the dried and ground sumac is a popular spice, particularly in Middle Eastern and Mediterranean cooking. The spice brightens the flavor of meats, grains, and salads.
Sumac is a defining ingredient in the spice blend za’atar, where it is typically combined with toasted sesame seeds and herbs like thyme or oregano. It can also be used as a dry rub for grilled meats, such as lamb or chicken, or sprinkled over hummus and other meze dishes as a garnish. The spice adds both a vibrant color and a characteristic tang to the dish.