Surma, also known as kohl, is a traditional eye cosmetic with deep cultural and historical roots in regions like the Middle East, North Africa, and South Asia. For centuries, it has been used to darken and contour the eyelids. Beyond its cosmetic use, surma is part of many belief systems, where it is applied to the eyes of infants and adults to promote eye health or provide protection. Its application is often a ritual passed down through generations, tying it closely to cultural identity.
The Composition of Traditional Surma
The primary ingredient in many traditional surma preparations is galena, a mineral that is a natural form of lead sulfide (PbS). When this ore is mined, it is crushed into a fine, dark grey powder which forms the base of the cosmetic. Analyses of traditional surma samples have found that lead can constitute a significant portion of the product’s weight, with some studies reporting lead concentrations as high as 73%.
While lead sulfide is often the main component, the exact composition of surma can vary. Some preparations may include other ingredients such as amorphous carbon (soot), various ground herbs, zincite, or other minerals to alter the texture or color. These additions, however, do not change the fact that the defining ingredient in many unregulated or traditionally sold surma products is a lead compound.
The Impact of Lead on the Body
How Lead Enters the Body
When lead-based surma is applied to the eyes, the lead can be absorbed into the body. While some absorption occurs through the mucous membranes of the eye, a more substantial pathway is through unintentional ingestion. Small particles of the cosmetic can flake off, enter the tear ducts, drain into the nasal cavity, and be swallowed. The powder can also get onto the hands during application and then be transferred to the mouth, a common occurrence with children.
Risks for Children
Once in the bloodstream, lead is a potent neurotoxin. It is especially dangerous for infants and children, whose developing bodies and nervous systems absorb it more readily than adults. Lead exposure in children is linked to serious health consequences, including:
- Developmental delays
- Behavioral problems
- A lower IQ
- Learning disabilities
Studies have documented significantly higher blood lead levels in children who regularly use surma. It is also associated with anemia, as lead interferes with the body’s ability to produce hemoglobin.
Risks for Adults and Other Concerns
The health risks are not limited to children. In adults, chronic lead exposure can contribute to kidney damage, fertility problems, and high blood pressure. For pregnant women, lead can cross the placenta, potentially leading to miscarriage, stillbirth, or developmental issues in the unborn child.
Beyond the systemic effects of lead poisoning, the direct application of surma can cause localized eye problems. The use of non-sterile powders or applicators can introduce bacteria into the eye, causing irritation and infections, while the abrasive mineral powder can cause microscopic scratches on the cornea.
Health Authority Regulations and Safe Alternatives
Health authorities worldwide have taken a clear stance against traditional surma due to the dangers of lead. The U.S. Food and Drug Administration (FDA) identifies kohl and surma as illegal color additives when they contain lead. These products are not permitted for sale in the United States, and the agency maintains an import alert to prevent them from entering the country. Legally marketed cosmetics in the U.S. have a limit of 10 parts per million (ppm) for lead, a level traditional surma often exceeds by thousands of times.
For those seeking a similar aesthetic effect, safer options are available. The most direct alternative is to use commercially produced eyeliners from reputable brands, which are subject to safety regulations and formulated without lead. It is advisable to read the ingredient list to ensure safety, especially when purchasing from less-regulated online marketplaces.
Modern eyeliners sometimes use the word “kohl” on their labels, but this is to describe a particular dark shade or soft texture, not the product’s composition. These products are formulated with ingredients like amorphous carbon or iron oxides, which are approved for cosmetic use. Choosing these regulated alternatives allows individuals to continue the cosmetic practice without exposure to a preventable health hazard.