The idea of perfume containing “whale vomit” refers to ambergris, a rare substance with historical ties to fragrance. Historically used in perfumery, ambergris is not vomit, and its use in modern mainstream perfumes is now uncommon. Advancements in science and changing ethical considerations have largely moved the industry away from its natural form.
What is Ambergris?
Ambergris is a solid, waxy substance produced in the digestive system of sperm whales. It forms around indigestible items, primarily the sharp beaks of squid, a major part of their diet. The whale’s gastrointestinal tract secretes a waxy substance to ease the passage of these hard objects, preventing internal injury. This mass is then passed by the whale, akin to fecal matter.
Once expelled, fresh ambergris initially has a strong, unpleasant fecal or marine odor. As it floats in the ocean for years or even decades, it undergoes a transformative process. Exposure to sun, air, and saltwater causes it to harden, lighten in color, and develop a complex, highly prized scent. The aged substance acquires a unique fragrance described as musky, sweet, earthy, marine, and animalic, often compared to a richer version of isopropyl alcohol.
The quality of ambergris varies, with lighter, older pieces being more valuable due to their refined aroma and higher concentration of ambrein, an odorless alcohol that is a key chemical component. Ambergris is exceptionally rare, produced by an estimated one percent of sperm whales. Pieces can range in size from small chunks to masses weighing hundreds of kilograms, with a 127 kg piece found off Yemen in 2021 valued at $1.5 million.
Ambergris in Historical Perfumery
Ambergris held immense value in perfumery for centuries, primarily due to its ability to act as a fixative. This property allowed fragrances to last significantly longer on the skin by anchoring more volatile ingredients, preventing their rapid evaporation. Its unique scent profile, which includes musky, warm, and oceanic notes, also enhanced and deepened other fragrances, adding a distinct character.
Beyond its fixative qualities, ambergris contributed a unique, complex aroma that was difficult to replicate. Perfumers valued its ability to “round out” compositions and impart a subtle, long-lasting bouquet, particularly to floral oils. Its rarity and the mystery surrounding its origin further elevated its status, making it a luxurious and highly sought-after ingredient. Historically, it was also used in various applications, from incense to flavorings.
During the 19th century, its high value earned it nicknames like “floating gold” or “treasure of the sea”. The use of ambergris in perfumes symbolized status and sophistication, playing an important role in many well-known historical fragrances.
The Shift to Modern Perfumery
The use of natural ambergris in mainstream perfumery has largely ceased due to ethical concerns, legal restrictions, and the development of synthetic alternatives. Sperm whales, the source of ambergris, are protected under various international and national laws. While the Convention on International Trade in Endangered Species (CITES) generally considers naturally excreted ambergris a waste product, some countries prohibit its trade as part of broader whale protection efforts.
The possession and trade of ambergris are prohibited in some countries, even if found washed ashore. These regulations aim to deter any potential exploitation or hunting of whales for the substance. The extreme rarity of natural ambergris complicates its consistent supply for commercial use, making it an unreliable ingredient for large-scale perfume production.
In response, the perfume industry embraced synthetic compounds that mimic natural ambergris’s scent and fixative properties. Ambroxan is a prominent synthetic alternative developed in the 1950s. This compound provides similar musky, woody, and animalic notes, along with desired longevity. The availability, consistency, and sustainability of synthetics like Ambroxan have made natural ambergris largely obsolete.