IPM is a common synthetic oil used extensively across the cosmetics and personal care industries. This lightweight ingredient is frequently found in moisturizers, sunscreens, and makeup because it improves product feel and performance. Consumer concern often arises regarding its safety, particularly its potential to clog pores or cause other skin reactions. This article examines the current scientific consensus and regulatory status of Isopropyl Myristate in skin care products.
What Is Isopropyl Myristate and How Is It Used?
Isopropyl Myristate is a clear, colorless, and odorless liquid classified chemically as an ester. It is formed through the reaction between isopropyl alcohol and myristic acid, a fatty acid often sourced from coconut or palm oil. This molecular structure gives IPM its unique properties, making it a versatile component in formulations.
The primary function of IPM in skin care is to act as an emollient, softening and smoothing the skin. It is valued because it is rapidly absorbed and delivers a dry-touch finish, reducing the heavy, greasy feel associated with traditional oils. This quality allows formulators to create products that feel lighter and spread more easily.
IPM also serves as an effective vehicle for other ingredients. By temporarily disrupting the lipid structure of the skin’s outermost layer (the stratum corneum), it enhances the penetration of active compounds. This means ingredients like vitamins or anti-aging agents can more readily reach their target layers, increasing the product’s overall potency.
General Safety and Regulatory Status
The general safety of Isopropyl Myristate has been formally reviewed by independent scientific bodies, including the Cosmetic Ingredient Review (CIR) Expert Panel. The CIR Panel concluded that IPM is safe for use in cosmetics under current practices and concentrations. This determination is based on a comprehensive review of scientific data concerning its systemic toxicity and interaction with the skin.
Studies have demonstrated that Isopropyl Myristate exhibits low systemic toxicity in acute oral and dermal applications. Research has also shown that the ingredient is neither mutagenic nor carcinogenic in the majority of animal studies. These findings confirm that IPM poses a very low risk of causing harm through absorption or by altering genetic material.
In human patch testing, IPM has been shown to be neither a skin irritant nor a sensitizer when formulated into finished products, even at relatively high concentrations of up to 58%. While the undiluted form can cause mild to moderate irritation in concentrated animal tests, this effect is significantly mitigated in cosmetic products where it is diluted and combined with other ingredients. The overall consensus supports that IPM is broadly safe for topical application, with minimal risk of allergic reaction.
Understanding Skin-Specific Concerns
Despite the regulatory consensus on general safety, Isopropyl Myristate remains a frequent subject of concern due to its potential for comedogenicity, or pore-clogging. In traditional testing, pure, undiluted IPM was assigned a high comedogenic rating, sometimes reaching a 5 on a 5-point scale. This result is the primary reason the ingredient is often flagged as a potential acne trigger for individuals with blemish-prone skin.
However, the actual comedogenic effect of IPM depends heavily on its concentration within the final product formulation. Scientific data indicates that the pore-clogging potential significantly decreases when the ingredient is diluted. For example, one study showed that IPM’s comedogenic rating dropped to zero when used at a 2.5% concentration.
Most cosmetic products, such as facial moisturizers and serums, incorporate IPM at low levels, typically ranging from 1% to 3%, where it functions primarily as a texture enhancer. Therefore, a finished cosmetic product containing a low amount of the ingredient is far less likely to cause breakouts than pure IPM. Individuals with acne-prone skin should still exercise caution and monitor their skin’s reaction to new products containing IPM.