Glycolic acid is a common skincare ingredient known for its exfoliating properties. Eczema is a chronic skin condition characterized by dryness, itching, and inflammation. This article explores whether glycolic acid is suitable or beneficial for eczema-prone skin, and how these two conditions interact.
Understanding Glycolic Acid
Glycolic acid is an alpha hydroxy acid (AHA) derived from sugarcane, widely used in cosmetic formulations. It functions as a chemical exfoliant, dissolving bonds that hold dead skin cells on the skin’s outermost layer. This process promotes cell turnover, leading to a smoother, brighter complexion.
Beyond exfoliation, glycolic acid also has humectant properties, attracting water to the skin for hydration. It is incorporated into products designed to improve skin texture, reduce fine lines, fade hyperpigmentation, and address acne. Consumers can find this ingredient in various skincare items, including cleansers, toners, serums, and facial peels.
Eczema and the Skin Barrier
Eczema, or atopic dermatitis, is a prevalent inflammatory skin condition that causes significant discomfort. It typically manifests as dry, itchy, red, bumpy, or scaly patches, sometimes leading to thickened or discolored skin.
A defining characteristic of eczema is a compromised skin barrier, the body’s primary defense against environmental factors. In individuals with eczema, this barrier is often “leaky” due to genetic predispositions, such as mutations in the filaggrin gene. This weakened barrier struggles to retain moisture effectively and provides inadequate protection against irritants, allergens, and microorganisms. Skin barrier dysfunction can trigger increased inflammation, persistent dryness, and intense itching.
Glycolic Acid’s Interaction with Eczema
Some individuals might consider glycolic acid for issues like skin flakiness or post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation. However, skincare professionals generally advise against using glycolic acid on skin affected by active eczema. This recommendation stems from glycolic acid’s inherent properties and the compromised nature of eczematous skin.
Glycolic acid’s small molecular size allows it to penetrate deeply. While beneficial for healthy skin, its exfoliating action can be highly irritating to an already weakened and inflamed skin barrier. Applying glycolic acid can exacerbate existing dryness, redness, and burning sensations, potentially worsening eczema flares. The compromised skin barrier in eczema is particularly vulnerable to further damage from such active ingredients.
Precautions for Eczema-Prone Skin
Using glycolic acid on eczema-prone skin carries specific risks. Individuals may experience heightened irritation, stinging, burning sensations, and increased redness. It can also cause swelling or exacerbate existing inflammation.
Strictly avoid glycolic acid during active eczema flares or on broken skin, as this can intensify discomfort and hinder healing. Glycolic acid increases the skin’s sensitivity to ultraviolet (UV) light, making daily use of broad-spectrum sunscreen even more important.
Combining glycolic acid with other potent active ingredients, such as retinoids or salicylic acid, is generally not recommended due to the elevated risk of over-exfoliation and irritation. While patch testing is sometimes suggested, it is often safer for eczema-prone skin to avoid glycolic acid due to its potential for adverse reactions.
Managing Eczema: Broader Skincare Strategies
For eczema management, a skincare routine focused on gentle care and barrier repair is recommended. This includes using mild, fragrance-free, non-soap cleansers with lukewarm water to avoid stripping natural oils. Consistent moisturizing is important, ideally applied immediately after bathing to lock in hydration.
Look for moisturizers and products that support and restore the skin barrier. These often include ceramides, which help form the skin’s protective layer, and humectants like hyaluronic acid and glycerin that attract moisture. Emollients like colloidal oatmeal, shea butter, and petrolatum can also provide soothing and barrier-reinforcing benefits.
Identifying and avoiding personal triggers, such as harsh chemicals, fragrances, or certain fabrics, is also important for effective eczema management. For personalized advice, consulting a dermatologist is always recommended.