Cashmere is definitively goat hair, yet it is far from a typical animal fiber. It is recognized as one of the most luxurious natural textile fibers, prized globally for its exceptional softness and warmth. This material’s desirability stems from its unique biological origin, resulting in physical attributes unmatched by most other wools. Its high value is linked to the specialized animals that produce it and the labor-intensive process required for harvesting and refinement.
The Cashmere Goat: Source of the Fiber
Cashmere originates from the fine, downy undercoat of the Capra Hircus species, known as the Cashmere goat. These goats thrive in the harsh, arid climates of high-altitude regions, particularly the plateaus of Mongolia, China, and Iran. To survive extreme winter temperatures, the goats naturally grow a double fleece for insulation.
The inner coat is the source of the valuable cashmere fiber, a soft layer of down providing thermal protection. This fine down is distinct from the animal’s outer layer, which consists of long, coarse guard hairs, sometimes called kemp. The guard hair provides mechanical protection and moisture shedding, but it must be separated from the fine undercoat before processing.
The Distinct Properties of Cashmere
The physical structure of the cashmere fiber sets it apart from other animal fibers. Fineness is the primary determinant of quality, with high-grade cashmere possessing an average fiber diameter typically ranging from 14 to 19 microns. This is substantially finer than human hair and softer than most grades of merino wool.
The fiber’s unique structure includes a high degree of crimp, which is the natural wave or curl along the length of the fiber. This crimp allows fibers to interlock loosely, creating microscopic air pockets that trap heat and provide superior insulation without adding bulk. Furthermore, high-quality cashmere fibers are often non-medullated, meaning they lack the hollow core found in coarser guard hairs. This contributes to the fiber’s soft drape and gentle feel. The combination of exceptional fineness and insulating crimp results in a textile that is extremely warm yet remarkably light.
From Goat to Garment: Harvesting and Processing
The collection of cashmere takes place once a year, typically in the spring, coinciding with the goat’s natural molting cycle as warmer weather arrives. The preferred, traditional method of harvesting is manual combing, where specialized tools gently rake the shedding down from the goat’s body. This method is labor-intensive but yields a longer, cleaner fiber with less coarse guard hair mixed in.
An alternative method, more common in commercial operations, is shearing. Shearing is quicker but results in a fleece containing a higher proportion of the coarse outer hair. Regardless of the collection technique, the raw material is a mixed mass of fine down and coarse guard hair, which must undergo a sophisticated separation process known as dehairing.
Dehairing is a mechanical procedure that uses specialized machinery to separate the fine undercoat from the stiff, unwanted guard hairs. This separation is necessary for producing pure cashmere yarn and significantly drives up the material’s cost. The process results in a considerable weight loss, as only about 35 to 40% of the raw collected fleece is typically recovered as pure, usable cashmere fiber. The resulting fine fiber is then scoured to remove dirt and grease before it is ready to be spun into the luxurious yarn used for garments.