Azelaic acid, a naturally occurring dicarboxylic acid, is a versatile ingredient in skincare. It is found in grains such as wheat, rye, and barley, and is also produced by a yeast that naturally resides on human skin. Consumers often wonder if it requires a prescription or is available over-the-counter. Understanding this distinction is important for navigating treatment options for common dermatological conditions.
Azelaic Acid Availability
Azelaic acid is accessible in both over-the-counter (OTC) formulations and prescription-strength medications. OTC products typically contain azelaic acid in concentrations up to 10%. These are widely available at drugstores, beauty retailers, and online, without a doctor’s visit. They often come in serum, cream, or booster formats.
For more significant skin conditions, azelaic acid is available by prescription in higher concentrations, commonly ranging from 15% to 20%. These prescription-strength products, such as Finacea (15% gel or foam) or Azelex (20% cream), require a medical consultation and can be obtained from pharmacies with a doctor’s prescription. The choice between an OTC and prescription product generally depends on the severity of the skin concern and the recommendation of a healthcare professional.
Key Uses
Azelaic acid addresses several skin conditions due to its multifaceted properties. It is widely used in managing acne, targeting both inflammatory and non-inflammatory types. The ingredient helps clear pores and reduces the growth of acne-causing bacteria like Propionibacterium acnes and Staphylococcus epidermidis. This action prevents new breakouts and calms existing lesions.
It also treats rosacea, a condition characterized by facial redness and bumps. Its anti-inflammatory properties visibly reduce the redness and swelling associated with rosacea. Its calming effects contribute to a more even skin tone and texture for sensitive, rosacea-prone skin.
Azelaic acid is effective in diminishing hyperpigmentation, including post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation (PIH) and melasma. It inhibits tyrosinase, an enzyme involved in melanin production, the pigment responsible for skin color. This mechanism helps to fade dark spots and promote a more uniform complexion. Additionally, azelaic acid has mild exfoliating capabilities, which contribute to improved skin texture and cell turnover.
Applying Azelaic Acid
Proper application of azelaic acid is important for optimal results and to minimize irritation. Apply to clean, dry skin. A small, pea-sized amount is usually sufficient for affected areas. Depending on the product form (cream, gel, or foam), it can be used once or twice daily, as directed by the product label or a healthcare professional.
Mild side effects may occur, especially when first introducing azelaic acid. These include burning, stinging, itching, redness, or dryness. To mitigate these initial reactions, start by applying every other day, gradually increasing frequency as skin adjusts. Applying to slightly damp skin or mixing with a gentle moisturizer can also reduce discomfort.
While azelaic acid does not typically increase sun sensitivity, daily broad-spectrum sunscreen with an SPF of 30 or higher is still highly recommended. This protects overall skin health and treated conditions like hyperpigmentation and acne, which sun exposure can exacerbate. If OTC azelaic acid doesn’t yield desired results, or if skin concerns are severe or persistent, consult a dermatologist. They can assess the condition, prescribe higher-strength options, or recommend alternative treatments.