Alpha hydroxy acids (AHAs) are a group of compounds frequently found in skincare products, valued for their exfoliating properties. Common examples include Glycolic Acid, derived from sugar cane, and Lactic Acid, which comes from milk. These ingredients function as chemical exfoliants, working to loosen the bonds between dead skin cells on the skin’s surface to reveal brighter, smoother skin underneath. The primary concern for expectant mothers is systemic absorption—the extent to which a topically applied substance enters the bloodstream and potentially reaches the developing fetus. Determining AHA safety requires understanding how they interact with the skin’s barrier.
How Alpha Hydroxy Acids Interact With Skin
AHAs achieve their exfoliating effect by reducing the calcium ion concentration in the outermost layer of the skin, the epidermis. This action disrupts the desmosomes, the cell-to-cell adhesion molecules that hold dead skin cells together. The result is enhanced shedding of the stratum corneum, leading to a smoother skin texture.
AHAs are small, water-soluble molecules, which generally limits their ability to penetrate deeply into the skin and reach systemic circulation. Glycolic acid, the smallest AHA molecule, has the highest potential for skin penetration compared to larger molecules like Lactic or Mandelic acid. Because AHAs are water-soluble, the majority of the compound remains in the superficial layers of the skin when applied topically. This characteristic suggests a minimal systemic exposure risk for most over-the-counter formulations, though absorption is influenced by the product’s formulation, concentration, and pH level.
Safety Guidelines Based on Concentration
The safety of using AHAs during pregnancy depends almost entirely on the concentration and method of application. Dermatologists generally divide AHA use into two categories: low-concentration, at-home products and high-concentration, professional procedures. Safety recommendations are based on the medical community’s assessment of systemic exposure.
At-home products, such as cleansers, toners, or serums, typically contain AHAs at a concentration of 10% or less. These low-concentration formulations are widely considered safe for use during pregnancy because minimal systemic absorption is unlikely to pose a risk to the fetus. Low-concentration Glycolic and Lactic acid products are often recommended as they offer exfoliation with limited penetration depth.
Conversely, professional chemical peels use significantly higher concentrations of AHAs, often ranging from 20% up to 70%. These high-strength peels are advised against during pregnancy due to the potential for a higher rate of absorption into the bloodstream. Furthermore, the aggressive nature of these peels can cause significant skin irritation and a systemic stress reaction. The general medical consensus is to postpone these elective, high-concentration procedures until after delivery.
Managing Pregnancy Skin Changes With Approved Ingredients
Pregnancy often brings about hormonal skin changes, such as melasma, sometimes called the “mask of pregnancy,” and hormonal acne. Melasma causes hyperpigmentation, while hormonal fluctuations stimulate oil production, leading to breakouts. While low-concentration AHAs are generally tolerated, many individuals seek alternatives to address these issues.
Azelaic Acid is a highly recommended, low-risk alternative for treating both acne and melasma during pregnancy. Available over-the-counter in strengths up to 10%, this acid reduces inflammation and inhibits melanin production, helping to lighten dark spots. It is considered safe because of its minimal systemic absorption and is often prescribed in higher strengths by dermatologists.
Other beneficial ingredients include Niacinamide and Vitamin C. Niacinamide, a form of Vitamin B3, is an anti-inflammatory that helps regulate oil production and improve the skin barrier function. Topical Vitamin C acts as an antioxidant, brightening the skin and helping to reduce hyperpigmentation. Before starting any new skincare regimen, consultation with an obstetrician or dermatologist is recommended.