The confusion surrounding terms like “genuine,” “real,” and “natural” in the diamond market is understandable, given the rapid advancements in gem technology. The introduction of laboratory-created stones has fractured the traditional language of the jewelry industry, leading to consumer uncertainty. To definitively answer whether a genuine diamond is a real diamond, it is necessary to establish a clear understanding of the scientific, legal, and commercial definitions that govern these terms, distinguishing between earth-mined diamonds, their lab-grown counterparts, and chemically different diamond look-alikes.
Decoding Diamond Terminology and Origin
A diamond is defined by its chemical structure: a solid form of the element carbon crystallized in the isometric cubic system. Each carbon atom is bonded to four others in a rigid, repeating tetrahedral network, which is the source of the material’s extraordinary hardness and stability. This scientific definition is the foundation for all modern industry terminology.
The U.S. Federal Trade Commission (FTC) revised its Jewelry Guides, removing the word “natural” from the official definition of a diamond. This change acknowledges that a diamond’s identity is based on its composition and physical properties, not solely its origin. Therefore, both natural and laboratory-grown stones are considered “real diamonds” or “genuine diamonds” because they share the exact same chemical makeup and crystal structure.
A “Natural Diamond” specifically refers to a stone formed deep within the Earth’s mantle over millions or billions of years under intense pressure and high temperature. In commercial use, “genuine diamond” and “real diamond” are often used interchangeably and can apply to either natural or lab-grown stones. Marketers are legally required to disclose clearly and conspicuously when a stone is laboratory-grown to prevent consumer deception.
Lab-Grown Diamonds: Identical Composition, Different Creation
Lab-grown diamonds, also known as cultivated or man-made diamonds, are physically, chemically, and optically identical to those mined from the earth. They are composed of 100% pure carbon and possess the same crystal lattice structure, refractive index, and Mohs hardness rating of 10. The only difference is the environment in which the crystallization process occurs.
These diamonds are created using one of two primary methods that replicate the conditions within the Earth. The High-Pressure/High-Temperature (HPHT) method uses extreme conditions to mimic the Earth’s mantle, forming a diamond from a carbon source like graphite. The Chemical Vapor Deposition (CVD) process involves placing a diamond “seed” in a vacuum chamber and introducing carbon-containing gases, which attach carbon atoms layer by layer.
Lab-grown diamonds exhibit the same fire, brilliance, and scintillation as their natural counterparts. The distinction is one of origin—man-made versus geological—not of material composition. This fundamental identity means that traditional gemological tests, which rely on chemical or physical properties, cannot easily differentiate between them.
Diamond Simulants: Look-Alikes That Are Not Carbon
Diamond simulants are gemstones that imitate the appearance of a diamond but are chemically distinct. These look-alikes do not share the pure carbon composition or the isometric crystal structure of a true diamond. Common simulants include Cubic Zirconia (CZ), which is zirconium dioxide, and Moissanite, which is silicon carbide.
Cubic Zirconia is a synthetic material with a hardness of approximately 8.5 on the Mohs scale, making it significantly softer than diamond. Moissanite is much harder, rating at 9.25. The optical properties of simulants also differ substantially; for instance, Moissanite exhibits a higher refractive index and double refraction, resulting in a more pronounced, rainbow-like “fire” compared to the white light brilliance of a diamond.
The difference in chemical structure means simulants have distinct physical properties, such as thermal conductivity and specific gravity. CZ is much denser than diamond, meaning a CZ stone will weigh more than a diamond of the same size. These quantifiable differences allow trained professionals to separate simulants from both natural and lab-grown diamonds with relative ease.
Consumer Methods for Identification and Verification
Consumer-grade thermal conductivity testers, often referred to as diamond testers, can be useful for ruling out common simulants. These devices work by measuring how quickly heat dissipates through the stone. Cubic Zirconia, having low thermal conductivity, will correctly register as a non-diamond on these testers.
Moissanite often presents a challenge because its thermal conductivity is extremely similar to diamond, frequently causing thermal testers to give a false positive reading. More advanced testing equipment incorporates electrical conductivity measurement, which can distinguish Moissanite because it is an electrical conductor, while most diamonds are not. Specialized laboratory equipment is required to detect subtle differences in trace elements or microscopic growth patterns to tell the difference between natural and lab-grown diamonds.
The most reliable method for consumers is to insist on a grading report from an independent, certified gemological laboratory such as the Gemological Institute of America (GIA) or the International Gemological Institute (IGI). These reports verify the stone’s physical characteristics and, crucially, its origin. Lab-grown diamonds are also required to have a microscopic laser inscription on their girdle that identifies them as laboratory-created, ensuring full transparency for the buyer.