The common fig, Ficus carica, is susceptible to freezing temperatures. For growers in colder climates, specifically USDA Zones 7 and below, winter protection is necessary to ensure the tree’s survival and fruit production. While established fig varieties can tolerate temperatures dropping to 10–15°F when fully dormant, temperatures consistently below this range will cause significant dieback or even death of the above-ground structure. Successful fig cultivation relies on carefully executed winterization techniques that safeguard the plant through its dormant period.
Preparing the Fig Tree for Winter
The process of preparing a fig tree for its dormant period begins in the late summer and continues until the first hard frost. Fertilizer application must stop by late summer to prevent the tree from pushing out soft, new growth that is highly vulnerable to cold damage. This cessation of feeding encourages the existing wood to properly harden, which increases the wood’s cold tolerance.
Preparation should begin after the tree has naturally shed all of its leaves, signaling full dormancy, but before temperatures drop below freezing for extended periods. At this point, remove any small, unripe figs and perform light pruning to remove diseased, damaged, or crossing branches. Drastically reduce watering to encourage the soil to dry out, which helps the tree maintain a deep dormancy and prevents root rot in storage. Before moving a container tree or wrapping an in-ground tree, inspect the plant thoroughly for any signs of pests, such as scale or spider mites, to avoid introducing them into the storage area.
Winter Storage for Container Trees
Container-grown fig trees offer the most straightforward winterization method, as they can be moved to a protected location once dormant. The ideal storage environment is a cool, dark place that remains consistently above freezing, such as an unheated garage, cool cellar, or shed. Temperatures should ideally range between 35°F and 50°F to keep the tree dormant without subjecting it to damaging cold.
The tree requires no light during its dormant phase, and placing it in a dark area helps prevent premature budding if a warm spell occurs. Water the tree very sparingly, perhaps only once per month, to keep the soil just barely moist. Avoiding excess water prevents root rot or encouraging the tree to break dormancy prematurely. The container itself can be wrapped with burlap or bubble wrap to provide additional insulation, protecting the root system which is more exposed to cold than those of in-ground trees.
Protecting In-Ground Fig Trees
Protecting fig trees planted directly in the garden requires creating an insulating structure to buffer against extreme cold. Begin by gently tying the tree’s branches together into a single, vertical bundle using soft rope or twine. This process, known as bundling, reduces the tree’s overall surface area and makes the subsequent wrapping process more manageable.
A common and effective technique is the “cage method,” which involves constructing a cylinder around the bundled tree using stakes and a material like chicken wire or fencing. This structure is then filled with insulating materials, such as shredded leaves or straw, which trap air and provide a thermal barrier. For added protection, the bundled tree can first be wrapped in breathable material like burlap before the cage is built and filled. It is important to cover the exterior of the cage with a moisture-resistant layer, such as tar paper or a tarp, to shield the insulation from rain and snow. However, the top of the structure must be left partially open or covered with a plastic bucket to allow for air circulation and prevent the buildup of moisture.
Poor ventilation can lead to condensation, promoting mold, mildew, and rot that can damage the dormant wood. An alternative method for smaller trees, especially for extremely cold regions, involves bending the tree to the ground and burying it completely in a shallow trench covered with soil and mulch.
Reintroducing Fig Trees in Spring
The transition out of winter protection must be gradual to prevent shocking the tree’s system. Protection should be removed in early spring after the sustained threat of hard frost, typically when nighttime temperatures consistently remain above 20°F. Removing the covering too early risks damaging new buds, but leaving it on too long can cause the tree to overheat and encourage rot or mold.
For in-ground trees, gradually unwrap the insulation over several days, allowing the wood to acclimate to the brighter light and fluctuating temperatures. Container trees should be moved from the dark storage area to a shaded or partially shaded outdoor location for about a week. This “hardening off” process allows the tree to adjust to sunlight and wind, preventing leaf scorch on any newly emerging growth. Once fully exposed, resume a normal watering routine and begin a regular fertilization schedule.