Leaving houseplants unattended while traveling is a common concern for plant owners. Returning home to thirsty, wilted foliage can quickly negate the relaxation gained from a trip. Fortunately, reliable methods exist to ensure plants remain hydrated, with the best solution depending on the length of your absence. This article provides practical, tiered strategies for plant hydration, moving from short-term fixes to long-term automated solutions.
Quick Fixes for Short Absences (Under 7 Days)
For trips lasting less than a week, the primary goal is to minimize the plant’s water loss through transpiration and evaporation. The day before departure, thoroughly saturate the soil of every pot until water flows freely from the drainage holes. This ensures the entire root ball is moist, providing a maximum reserve of water for the plant to draw upon.
A simple, effective strategy is to relocate all houseplants away from direct sunlight, open windows, or heating/cooling vents. Moving plants to a slightly cooler, shadier spot reduces the energy available for photosynthesis, which in turn slows down the rate of water vapor loss from the leaves. Grouping pots closely together further helps by creating a small, localized microclimate with higher ambient humidity.
The “houseplant bath” method is a low-tech solution ideal for moisture-loving plants. Place a towel on the bottom of a bathtub or large sink and fill it with one to two inches of water. Potted plants, which must have drainage holes, are then placed on the towel, allowing the soil to slowly wick water upward via capillary action. This passive absorption system maintains adequate soil moisture for up to seven days without risking saturation and root rot, provided the water level is kept low.
Sustained Watering Using Wicking and Reservoirs
For absences extending between seven and fourteen days, a system that actively supplies water is necessary to prevent the soil from completely drying out. This approach relies on the principle of capillary action, using a physical conduit to transfer water from a reservoir into the soil.
A DIY wicking system uses a strip of absorbent material, such as cotton rope, nylon cord, or felt fabric, to draw water from an external container. One end of the wick is submerged in a large water-filled reservoir, positioned slightly higher than the plant pot. The opposite end is buried a few inches deep into the soil, allowing the continuous, slow movement of water to maintain consistent moisture. Pre-soaking the wick before setup ensures immediate, uninterrupted capillary flow.
Another effective reservoir method involves repurposing a plastic or glass bottle to create a slow-drip mechanism. By drilling three to five small holes into the bottle’s cap, the container is filled with water, inverted, and quickly inserted into the soil near the plant’s base. Soil tension and gravity regulate the slow release of water from the bottle as the surrounding soil begins to dry out. Commercial terracotta or ceramic watering spikes function similarly, working by osmosis to release water gradually from a reservoir—often an inverted wine bottle—directly into the soil.
Automated Irrigation for Long-Term Travel
When travel exceeds two weeks, or for plant collections that are too numerous for manual systems, automated solutions provide reliable, scheduled watering. These systems typically rely on a timer and a small pump or pressurized water source to deliver water through a network of tubing.
For indoor plants, small, battery-operated drip systems use a pump submerged in a water bucket to push water through micro-tubing to individual plant drippers. These timers allow for precise scheduling, such as delivering a specific volume of water every few days, which is more consistent than any manual method. Perform a trial run for three to four days before leaving to fine-tune the timer settings and confirm the pump is functioning correctly.
For outdoor container gardens or small beds, a temporary drip irrigation kit connects to an outdoor spigot and uses a hose-end timer to regulate the flow. Alternatively, a soaker hose buried under a layer of mulch can be set on a timer to deliver water directly to the root zone, significantly reducing evaporation loss. If mechanical systems are not feasible, the most reliable long-term solution is to arrange for a house sitter or a neighbor to visit, providing clear, written instructions for watering frequency and volume.