How to Warm a Greenhouse and Keep It Heated

The ability to maintain a stable, warm environment is necessary for extending the growing season and ensuring optimal plant health. In cooler climates or during shoulder seasons, regulating the interior temperature protects sensitive crops from freezing or chilling injury. Temperature stability promotes consistent metabolic processes, which directly affects growth rates and productivity. Achieving this requires a multi-layered approach that minimizes heat loss while effectively capturing and distributing warmth. The goal is to provide a consistent minimum temperature above the threshold required for plant survival and healthy development.

Maximizing Heat Retention

The first step in maintaining warmth involves addressing the structure’s physical envelope to reduce thermal transfer and air leakage. Heat loss through conduction and convection can be minimized by identifying and sealing all air gaps or cracks in the framing, vents, and foundation. Using a weather-resistant sealant or flexible caulk around door and window frames prevents cold air infiltration, which otherwise forces the heating system to work harder to compensate for the continuous exchange of air.

Insulating the transparent surfaces provides a temporary layer that slows the rate of heat escape after sunset. Applying polyethylene film or bubble wrap directly to the interior glazing creates a second air pocket, which acts as an effective insulator. This method reduces the overall U-factor, or the rate of heat transfer, without entirely blocking daylight transmission.

Specialized thermal blankets or shade cloths can be deployed over the glazing at night to reduce radiant heat loss. These materials often contain reflective surfaces that bounce internal warmth back toward the plants. Placing reflective barriers on the north-facing wall, which receives minimal direct sunlight, can redirect ambient light deeper into the structure while diminishing heat loss. These passive structural improvements reduce the overall demand on any subsequent heating strategy by creating a more thermally efficient enclosure.

Harnessing and Storing Solar Energy

Once the structure is sealed, the next strategy involves using the sun’s energy for delayed release. Thermal mass refers to dense materials that possess a high specific heat capacity, allowing them to absorb large amounts of heat energy during the day and radiate it back into the environment slowly at night. Water is an excellent material for this purpose, boasting one of the highest specific heat capacities.

Placing large, dark-colored containers of water, such as 55-gallon drums, within the structure maximizes solar absorption. Painting these barrels black ensures they capture solar radiation as infrared energy, heating the contained water. As the external temperature drops after sundown, the stored thermal energy is released gradually, moderating the nighttime temperature decline and protecting plants from cold shock.

Other dense materials like concrete flooring, stone, or gravel beneath the benches also function as thermal mass. Utilizing concrete or stone pavers for walkways provides a functional surface that contributes to temperature stabilization. The effectiveness of these materials depends heavily on their exposure to direct sunlight during the peak hours of the day.

Strategic placement of the thermal mass maximizes efficiency. Locating water barrels along the north wall or under raised benches allows them to absorb heat without interfering with light reaching the plants. This positioning ensures heat is radiated from an area that otherwise contributes to heat loss, creating a buffer zone. The sheer volume of the mass determines the amount of energy stored, so using the maximum practical volume is recommended for effective passive heating.

Supplemental Active Heating Systems

When passive solar gain and structural retention are insufficient to maintain minimum required temperatures, a mechanical heating system becomes necessary. The selection of an active heating unit depends on the size of the structure, the required temperature difference, and the available fuel sources.

Types of Heaters

Electric resistance heaters are simple to install and operate, but they can be expensive to run, especially in larger structures, due to the high cost of electricity per unit of heat generated.

Combustion heaters, such as those fueled by propane, natural gas, or kerosene, typically offer a lower operating cost and greater heat output for larger spaces. These units require careful safety consideration due to the production of combustion byproducts, including carbon monoxide and ethylene. Proper venting of the exhaust is non-negotiable for propane and natural gas heaters to prevent the buildup of toxic gases that can harm both plants and people. Kerosene heaters, while portable, are often considered a last resort because they produce moisture and require significant ventilation to avoid the accumulation of pollutants.

Sizing and Control

The output of any supplemental heater must be properly sized, which is typically calculated in British Thermal Units (BTUs) per hour, based on the total volume of the greenhouse and the desired temperature differential. An undersized heater will run continuously without achieving the target temperature, wasting fuel.

Accurate temperature control is achieved by coupling the heater to a precise thermostat or an environmental controller. Placing the thermostat sensor at plant height, away from direct heat sources or cold drafts, ensures it measures the temperature the plants are actually experiencing. These controllers maintain a consistent minimum temperature by cycling the heater only when the air temperature drops below the set point, preventing large temperature swings. Regular maintenance of the heating equipment, including cleaning burners and checking fuel lines, ensures efficient operation and reduces the risk of system failure during cold periods.

Effective Heat Distribution

Generating or storing heat is only one part of the equation; that warmth must be uniformly distributed to benefit all plants within the space. A common issue is heat stratification, where warm air naturally rises and collects near the peak of the structure, leaving the plant canopy and root zone significantly cooler. This inefficiency means the heater runs longer to heat the lower levels, even though the air near the ceiling may be excessively warm.

Horizontal Airflow (HAF) fans are the primary tool for mitigating stratification by creating a gentle, continuous, circular air pattern within the structure. These fans are typically mounted high and positioned to move air parallel to the ground, pushing the warm ceiling air down and mixing it with the cooler air at the floor level. The resulting air movement ensures a more uniform temperature from floor to ceiling and across the entire structure.

Proper air circulation also helps to break up microclimates and prevents the formation of pockets of stagnant, cool air around the plants. When using forced-air heaters, the placement of the heat outlet and the fan system must be coordinated to ensure the warm air is immediately mixed into the general circulation pattern. Directing warm air toward the root zone is particularly beneficial since soil temperatures significantly influence nutrient uptake and plant metabolism. Maintaining air movement is just as important during the day to help the thermal mass materials efficiently absorb heat.