A tree pruner is a tool, ranging from long-handled loppers to telescoping pole pruners, used to manage branches too thick for hand shears or too high to reach. This equipment enables users to remove unwanted limbs and shape the tree canopy. Employing the correct technique is paramount, as improper cuts can introduce disease or pests, compromising the tree’s natural defense mechanisms. Using a pruner safely requires understanding the tool’s mechanics and the surrounding environment to prevent accidents.
Selecting the Correct Pruning Tool
Choosing the appropriate tool depends on the diameter and height of the branch. Handheld pruners (secateurs) are suitable for branches less than one inch thick, while long-handled loppers handle limbs up to two inches in diameter. For high branches, a pole pruner—combining a cutting head and saw blade on an extendable pole—allows the user to work from a stable position on the ground.
The design of the cutting head is also a factor, with two primary types: bypass and anvil. Bypass pruners operate like scissors, with two blades passing each other to make a clean, precise cut. This style is recommended for pruning live wood because the clean slice minimizes damage to plant tissue, promoting faster healing.
Anvil pruners feature a single sharp blade that closes onto a flat surface, crushing the material. This crushing action is detrimental to live, growing branches because it can damage the remaining tissue. Therefore, anvil pruners are better suited for cutting dead, tough, or dried-out wood where cut cleanliness is less of a concern.
Essential Safety and Environmental Preparation
Before making any cut, a thorough assessment of the work area is necessary to mitigate hazards, especially those involving electricity. Maintain a minimum distance of 10 feet between yourself, your tools, and any overhead power lines. Electricity can arc, or jump, to a conductive material like a metal pole pruner even without direct contact. If a branch is near a power line, contact the local utility company for professional assistance before proceeding.
Personal protective equipment is also a requirement, including durable work gloves to protect hands from splinters and sharp blades, and safety glasses to shield the eyes from falling debris and sawdust. If using a pole pruner or saw overhead, wearing a hard hat is a sensible measure against falling branches. You must ensure your footing is secure and stable, avoiding the use of ladders unless absolutely necessary.
Clearing the drop zone beneath the branch is another precautionary step, ensuring no people, pets, or property are in the path of the falling limb. Since the branch’s weight can cause it to drop unexpectedly, establishing a clear escape route and working slowly helps prevent accidents.
Mechanics of Making the Cut
For removing any branch over one inch in diameter, or one heavy enough to potentially tear the bark, the proper technique involves making three distinct cuts. This method prevents the bark from peeling down the trunk, a severe injury that exposes the tree’s living tissue to disease and decay.
The Three-Cut Method
The first cut is an undercut, made on the underside of the branch approximately 6 to 12 inches away from the trunk or parent branch. This initial undercut should penetrate about one-third of the way through the limb, acting as a stop-point for any downward tear. This shallow cut prevents a strip of bark from peeling down the trunk if the limb breaks prematurely.
The second cut is made from the top of the branch, situated a few inches farther out (distally) from the first cut. The purpose of this second cut is to remove the bulk of the branch’s weight, allowing it to fall cleanly between the two cuts. Once the limb falls away, a short stub remains attached to the tree.
The third and final cut removes this stub precisely at the branch collar. The branch collar is the slightly swollen area of tissue that forms around the base of the branch where it connects to the trunk. This collar contains specialized cells that are responsible for the tree’s natural wound sealing process.
The final cut must be made just outside the branch collar, following the natural angle of the collar itself, without damaging or removing this protective tissue. Making the cut too close, or “flush,” with the trunk will injure the collar and hinder the tree’s ability to seal the wound. Conversely, leaving too long of a stub will create a dead section of wood that the tree cannot easily seal over, which invites decay.
Post-Use Care and Tool Maintenance
After a pruning session, cleaning the tool is necessary to remove sticky sap, dirt, and plant residue, which can dull the blade and promote rust formation. Sap, in particular, can be dissolved effectively using a cloth dampened with a lubricant like general-purpose oil or a solvent. Wiping the metal surfaces clean immediately after use prevents the buildup of material that could harbor pathogens or slow down the blade action.
Sharpening the blades ensures that subsequent cuts are clean and efficient, which is crucial for the tree’s health and the user’s effort. A diamond file or sharpening stone should be used, maintaining the original beveled angle of the blade. The file should only be pushed in one direction, away from the cutting edge. After sharpening the main bevel, lightly run the stone flat across the back of the blade to remove any microscopic metal shavings, or burrs, that have formed.
Once the blades are clean and sharp, a light application of oil to the moving parts and the blade surfaces will lubricate the tool and provide a protective barrier against moisture. Storing the pruner in a dry location, such as hung up in a shed or garage, will prevent rust and keep the tool in optimal condition for the next use.