Pruning a tree promotes healthy growth, improves its structure, and enhances its appearance. Making clean, accurate cuts is essential to help the tree heal quickly and avoid inviting pests or disease. Proper technique also protects you from potential injury.
Understanding Your Pruning Tools
Choosing the correct tool for the branch size is the first step toward achieving a clean cut. Handheld pruners (secateurs) are appropriate for small branches up to about three-quarters of an inch thick. Loppers feature long handles for increased leverage, cutting medium-sized branches up to two inches in diameter. Pole pruners are designed with long, often telescoping handles to reach high branches while keeping your feet safely on the ground.
Pruners generally use one of two cutting actions: bypass or anvil. Bypass pruners operate like scissors, with two blades passing each other to create a clean, precise cut that minimizes tissue damage. They are the preferred choice for pruning live wood, which is delicate and needs to heal quickly. Anvil pruners use a single blade that slices down onto a flat, fixed surface, which can sometimes crush the plant tissue. Anvil tools are better suited for cutting dead, tougher wood where a clean cut is not as critical.
Essential Safety and Preparation
Before making any cuts, prioritize personal safety and tool readiness. Always wear personal protective equipment, including heavy-duty gloves and safety glasses to shield your eyes from debris. When using pole pruners, be mindful of your surroundings, avoid overreaching, and maintain stable footing on level ground.
Sanitizing your pruner blades prevents the spread of plant diseases between cuts and between different trees. Tools can easily transfer pathogens (fungal, bacterial, and viral) from an infected branch to a healthy one. A simple method is to wipe the blades with 70% isopropyl alcohol, which minimizes the risk of introducing diseases to fresh, open wounds.
Mastering the Cutting Technique
Making the cut in the right location is paramount for the tree’s ability to compartmentalize and seal off the wound. For smaller branches, the cut should be made just outside the branch collar. The branch collar is the slightly swollen area of bark tissue where the branch connects to the larger limb or trunk. Cutting outside this collar protects the specialized tissue that facilitates the tree’s natural healing process.
When removing a large, heavy branch, use the three-cut method to prevent the bark from tearing down the trunk. The first cut is an undercut, made on the underside of the branch about a foot away from the branch collar, cutting only about one-third of the way through. The second cut is made from the top, a few inches farther out from the undercut, which removes the branch’s weight and causes it to break cleanly. The final step involves removing the remaining short stub with a single, clean cut just outside the branch collar, leaving the collar intact to promote quick wound closure.
Post-Pruning Tool Care
Immediately after pruning, cleaning your tools ensures their longevity and prevents rust. Start by removing all visible debris, such as sap and dirt, from the blades and moving parts using a wire brush or steel wool. Sap residue, especially from resinous wood, can quickly gum up the mechanism and harbor moisture, which encourages rust formation.
Once the tools are clean and thoroughly dried, a light application of oil is necessary for lubrication and protection. Apply a few drops of a general-purpose oil, such as mineral or camellia oil, to the blades and the pivot joint. This oil layer prevents moisture from reaching the metal, keeps the blades moving smoothly, and protects them from rust. Finally, maintain the cutting edge by using a sharpening stone or file to restore the original bevel angle, which keeps cuts clean and reduces the effort required during the next pruning session.