The scythe is an ancient agricultural implement experiencing a resurgence as a quiet, sustainable method. Composed of a curved steel blade attached to a long handle called a snath, this human-powered tool offers an alternative to machinery. Scything weeds and grass is efficient when the tool is correctly fitted and the technique is mastered. It relies on smooth, rhythmic body movement rather than brute force, making it effective for managing large areas.
Choosing and Fitting the Scythe
The choice of scythe determines the success of cutting weeds and grass. The two primary styles are the heavier American or Bush scythe and the lighter European or Austrian scythe. The American style features a thicker blade and a highly curved snath, designed for coarser vegetation and requiring grinder sharpening. The European style is preferred for grass and common weeds due to its lighter weight and thinner, more malleable blade.
The snath must be properly adjusted to the user’s body for an ergonomic and strain-free experience. The snath includes two handles, known as nibs, which must be positioned correctly relative to the user’s height. To find the position for the lower nib, stand the scythe upright with the blade heel on the ground; the lower nib should align with the user’s hip bone or greater trochanter.
The upper nib is set so that when the user holds the lower nib with the right hand, the upper nib fits comfortably in the left hand, aligning with the upper chest or chin. This positioning allows the user to stand upright with a straight back, guiding the blade with the arms while powering the motion from the core. A proper fit prevents the bending and stooping that lead to fatigue and back discomfort.
Executing the Cutting Stroke
Effective scything is a full-body motion, driven by the hips and torso, not the arms. The starting stance involves facing the area to be cut with feet about shoulder-width apart, the scythe blade resting on the ground to the user’s right. The back of the blade should touch the ground, slightly elevating the cutting edge.
The movement begins with a gentle rotation of the torso to the left, initiating a wide, shallow arc. The hands and arms act primarily as guides, allowing the blade to sweep across the ground in a smooth, continuous slicing motion. This technique is more like a low, horizontal slice than a chop, which is a common error for beginners.
The goal is to keep the blade consistently close to the ground, allowing it to shave the weeds just above the soil line. As the blade moves from the right to the left, the body weight transfers from the right foot to the left, creating a natural flow and momentum. At the end of the arc, the cut material is deposited neatly in a line, called a swath, to the left of the mower.
After completing the stroke, the user takes a small step forward and rotates the torso back to the right to begin the next pass. This continuous, rhythmic sequence of slicing, shifting weight, and stepping forward allows the mower to efficiently progress without unnecessary pauses or strain. The power comes from the rotation of the core muscles, not from pulling or hacking with the arms.
Blade Maintenance: Honing and Peening
Maintaining a razor-sharp edge is essential for efficient scything, particularly with the thinner European-style blades suitable for weeds. The two distinct maintenance processes are honing and peening. Honing is the frequent field-sharpening process using a whetstone or sharpening stone.
During mowing, the sharp cutting edge quickly wears down, making the work harder. Honing involves running a whetstone over both sides of the blade to refresh the acute angle. This is done frequently, often every five to ten minutes, and takes only a few seconds to complete. The stone is carried in a water-filled pouch on the belt and is passed over the blade in a light, scissoring motion.
Peening is cold-hammering the blade’s edge to thin and widen the metal, reshaping the profile. Over time, repeated honing wears the edge back into thicker metal, causing the blade to lose its ability to hold a fine edge. Peening restores the original, paper-thin profile, ensuring the blade remains malleable and capable of holding a keen edge.
Peening is a less frequent task, needed perhaps after every four to ten hours of mowing, depending on the vegetation being cut. It can be done freehand with a hammer and anvil or, more commonly for beginners, with a specialized peening jig that simplifies the process of thinning the metal. Peening ensures the longevity and performance of the blade by drawing out the steel and work-hardening the metal.
Safety and Storage Practices
Safety begins with ensuring the mowing area is clear of unseen obstacles that could damage the blade or cause injury. Before starting, visually inspect the ground for rocks, metal debris, or stumps concealed by the weeds. Wearing sturdy footwear protects the feet, and thick trousers offer protection against the sharp blade and unexpected hazards.
During cutting, maintain awareness of the blade’s position and stop immediately if it strikes something solid. Hitting an obstruction can cause a nick or dent, requiring immediate maintenance. Always keep bystanders, especially children or pets, well outside the radius of the cutting arc.
For storage, the blade edge must be protected to maintain sharpness and prevent accidents. A blade cover, often made of leather or thick canvas, should be placed over the edge before the tool is put away. The scythe should be stored horizontally or hung vertically out of reach. Applying a light coat of oil to the blade, particularly carbon steel varieties, prevents rust and corrosion during periods of disuse.