A pruning saw is a specialized tool engineered for cutting live woody material that is too thick for bypass loppers but not large enough to warrant a chainsaw. These saws often feature a curved or folding design with coarse, aggressive teeth specifically shaped for biological tissue. Unlike traditional carpentry handsaws, the pruning saw is designed to cut primarily on the pull stroke. This mechanism provides greater control and leverage, making cleaner cuts through resilient wood fibers.
Essential Safety and Setup
Safety glasses are mandatory to shield the eyes from flying sawdust and small pieces of bark that are ejected during the sawing motion. Wearing sturdy work gloves protects the hands from splinters and improves the grip on the saw handle, particularly when applying force on the pull stroke.
The saw itself requires a quick inspection to ensure the blade is securely fastened and that the teeth are sharp enough to slice cleanly through the wood. A dull blade requires excessive force, leading to ragged cuts and increased user fatigue, which compromises the tree’s ability to heal.
Always check the area beneath the limb to be pruned, clearing away any obstacles or debris where the branch will ultimately fall. This preparatory step ensures the user has a clear path to step away safely once the cut is completed and the limb drops. Finally, verify the branch is stable and not entangled with other limbs or wires before committing to the cut.
Proper Technique for Pruning Small to Medium Limbs
When approaching a small or medium-sized limb, typically one to three inches in diameter, proper body positioning maximizes efficiency and reduces strain. Grip the saw handle firmly, maintaining a stance that keeps your feet shoulder-width apart to ensure a solid base. The sawing motion should originate from the shoulder and back, allowing the body’s weight to drive the cut rather than relying solely on arm strength.
Apply consistent pressure only as you pull the saw back toward your body, allowing the deeply set teeth to bite into the wood fibers. The push stroke should be light, essentially just resetting the saw for the next powerful pull, as attempting to cut on the push stroke can cause the blade to bind or buckle.
Use long, steady strokes that engage the full length of the blade, which keeps the cut straight and prevents the blade from overheating or binding in the kerf. Short, rapid motions generate excessive friction and sawdust, making the cutting process inefficient and increasing the chance of a rough, uneven edge. A clean, smooth cut promotes rapid callus formation and wound closure on the tree.
The location of the cut is just as important as the technique, as tree healing occurs not from the middle of the cut face, but from the specialized tissue at the edge. Locate the branch collar, which is the slightly swollen ring of bark tissue at the base where the branch connects to the main trunk or parent limb. The final cut must be made just outside this collar, leaving this protective tissue completely intact.
The branch collar contains the meristematic tissue necessary for the tree to seal the wound effectively, a process known as compartmentalization. Cutting too close to the trunk, often called a flush cut, removes this protective tissue and creates a larger, more difficult wound for the tree to close. When making the final stroke on a smaller limb, support the limb with your non-sawing hand to prevent the wood from tearing downward as it separates, which helps maintain the integrity of the bark around the collar.
Specialized Cuts for Heavy or Overhanging Branches
Removing heavy or long branches that are four inches or more in diameter requires a specialized, multi-step approach to prevent significant damage to the tree’s bark. A heavy limb allowed to drop in a single cut will inevitably strip a long ribbon of bark downward, creating a large, open wound on the trunk. This technique, commonly known as the three-cut method, manages the branch’s weight before making the final, precise cut.
The first step is the undercut, placed approximately 6 to 12 inches away from the branch collar, cutting upward from the bottom of the limb. This initial cut should go about one-third of the way through the limb’s diameter, creating a barrier to stop any downward tear.
The second step, the relief cut, is made a few inches further out from the undercut and is sawed downward from the top. Continue sawing until the limb’s weight causes it to break cleanly off, falling to the ground. This action successfully removes the bulk of the branch’s weight, leaving a short, manageable stub remaining on the tree.
Once the main weight is gone, the final cut can be made without the risk of bark stripping. This third cut removes the remaining stub and is positioned precisely just outside the branch collar, mirroring the technique used for smaller limbs. The stub must be supported with one hand during this cut to ensure a smooth separation and to prevent the blade from binding. This three-step process mitigates the physical risk of a large limb swinging unexpectedly and protects the tree from extensive damage that could invite disease or pests.