A pruning saw is a specialized tool designed for removing tree branches generally exceeding 1.5 to 2 inches in diameter, which are too large for standard hand pruners or loppers. The saw blade features large, aggressive teeth designed to cut efficiently through dense woody material. Using the proper technique with a sharp pruning saw ensures a clean cut that promotes the tree’s natural healing process, known as compartmentalization of decay in trees (CODIT).
Selecting the Right Saw
The choice of pruning saw depends primarily on the size of the branch and its location on the tree. Fixed-blade saws feature a long, rigid blade, often curved, which offers maximum leverage and control for branches within easy reach. A curved blade is effective for fast, aggressive cutting and helps keep the blade engaged when working at awkward angles. Straight-blade saws are useful for precise cuts on branches situated between shoulder and waist height, where a back-and-forth motion is more natural.
Folding saws are compact, portable versions, typically with a shorter blade that safely locks into the handle for storage, making them convenient for smaller jobs. For high limbs, a pole saw is the appropriate tool, consisting of a pruning saw blade mounted on a long, extendable pole. Manual pole saws allow pruning from the ground, eliminating the need for a ladder and enhancing safety when cutting high branches.
Essential Safety and Preparation
Always wear appropriate personal protective equipment (PPE) before cutting begins. This includes sturdy leather gloves and safety glasses or goggles with side shields to protect against falling debris and sawdust. If working overhead, a hard hat is also recommended to guard against falling branches.
Maintain secure and stable footing at all times, whether standing on the ground or using a ladder. Never over-reach, as losing your balance can lead to serious injury. Clearly identify the direction the branch will fall and ensure the area below is completely clear of people, pets, and property.
Mastering the Pruning Technique
The proper sawing motion for most pruning saws involves maximizing the efficiency of the pull stroke, as many blades are designed to cut most effectively when drawn toward the user. Use the full length of the blade with long, steady strokes, letting the weight and sharpness of the saw do the work instead of forcing the cut. Avoid short, choppy movements that can bind the blade and reduce cutting speed.
For removing large or heavy branches, employ the three-cut method to prevent the branch weight from tearing the bark down the trunk, which severely damages the tree. The first cut is an undercut made on the underside of the branch, about a foot from the trunk, extending approximately one-third of the way through the wood. This initial cut creates a physical barrier that stops the bark from peeling.
The second cut is made from the top of the branch, one to two inches further out from the undercut, and continues until the branch’s weight causes it to break away. This step removes the bulk of the weight, leaving behind a manageable stub. The third and final cut removes this remaining stub cleanly, made just outside the branch collar. The branch collar is the slightly swollen area where the branch meets the trunk. Leaving this tissue intact allows the tree to form wound wood, effectively sealing the cut and preventing decay from entering the main stem.
Maintaining the Tool
Keeping the pruning saw clean and dry is fundamental to its longevity and cutting performance. After each use, the blade should be thoroughly cleaned to remove sticky sap, resin, and wood debris, which can attract moisture. A stiff brush and a solvent like mineral spirits or isopropyl alcohol can effectively dissolve the sap and remove the residue from the teeth.
Once cleaned, the blade must be completely dried, and a light coat of anti-rust agent or oil should be applied to the metal surface before storage. While some pruning saw blades can be sharpened with a specialized diamond file, many modern saws feature impulse-hardened teeth that are not designed for home sharpening. For these blades, replacement is the more practical option once the cutting edge becomes dull.