The arrival of spring signals the time to transition your irrigation system from its winterized state back into full operation, a process commonly known as spring startup or system reactivation. This transition must be performed carefully to avoid damage to the pipes and components that have been dormant and empty of water for months. A systematic approach ensures the longevity of your equipment and the efficient watering of your landscape throughout the growing season.
Pre-Startup Inspection and Safety
Before introducing water pressure back into the system, a thorough visual inspection is necessary to identify potential damage sustained over the winter months. Confirm that the main controller is set to the “OFF” or “RAIN” position. This prevents any zones from activating unexpectedly during the initial charging process, as a running zone during pressurization can cause a sudden rush of water that damages the system.
Walk the property and examine all exposed piping, backflow prevention devices, and individual sprinkler heads for visible signs of cracking, splitting, or misalignment. Freezing water expanding inside a pipe can cause hairline fractures that will become major leaks when pressurized. Ensure that all manual drain valves, which may have been opened for winterization, are securely closed to prevent immediate water loss upon startup.
Clear any debris, such as dirt, leaves, or mulch, that has accumulated around the sprinkler heads and valve boxes, as this can impede their proper function and spray pattern. Pay attention to the backflow device, as its components are susceptible to freeze damage and must be intact before water is turned on.
Opening the Main Water Supply and Backflow Device
The spring startup procedure involves slowly opening the main water supply to prevent “water hammer.” Water hammer is a pressure surge created when water rapidly rushes into empty pipes, causing a shockwave that can burst fittings, crack pipes, and damage valves. Locate the main shutoff valve, which is typically found near the water meter or where the line enters the yard.
Open this main valve extremely slowly, turning it only a quarter of the way open at first. Listen for water filling the main lines and allow the system to slowly pressurize, letting trapped air escape naturally. Wait for several minutes before opening the valve slightly more, repeating this gradual process until the valve is fully open.
If your system includes a backflow preventer, its ball valves must also be opened sequentially and slowly. First, ensure the test cocks are closed. Then, slowly open the valve closest to the water source, waiting a few minutes for the main line to fill. Finally, slowly open the second valve on the backflow device to charge the rest of the irrigation system.
System Pressurization and Zone Testing
With the main lines fully charged, test the system’s functionality zone by zone by activating the controller. Switch the main controller from the “OFF” position to the “RUN” or “MANUAL” mode. Manually activate the first watering zone for a short duration, typically three to five minutes. As the zone runs, the heads will likely sputter and spit air for the first minute, which is normal as the last air pockets are flushed out of the lateral lines.
Walk through the activated zone and visually inspect every sprinkler head to ensure it fully extends and rotates correctly. Check the spray pattern for proper coverage, ensuring water is not misting due to low pressure or spraying onto sidewalks and driveways. Note any heads that are clogged, spraying unevenly, or misaligned for adjustment or cleaning after the water is turned off for that zone.
Repeat this manual activation and inspection process for every zone connected to the controller, addressing one zone at a time. This sequential testing confirms that the electrical solenoids are activating the valves and that the water pressure is sufficient throughout the system. If a zone exhibits significantly lower pressure compared to others, it may indicate a partial blockage or an undetected leak within that zone’s piping.
Troubleshooting Common Issues and Final Adjustments
After testing all zones, common problems may persist. Persistently low pressure across the entire system often signals a significant leak in the main line. If low pressure is isolated to a single zone, the issue could be a broken sprinkler head or a damaged lateral pipe. Sputtering heads that continue to spray erratically past the first minute may indicate trapped air or clogged nozzles that require cleaning.
If a zone fails to activate entirely, the problem is likely electrical, pointing to a malfunction with the solenoid or the wiring connecting the valve to the controller. A faulty solenoid is a common failure point that prevents the valve from opening and allowing water flow. Once physical issues are resolved, program the seasonal watering schedule into the controller, adjusting start times and run durations based on current weather and plant needs.
Check the functionality of any rain sensors or weather-based accessories connected to the system. Ensure the rain sensor is uncovered and set to its proper sensitivity level. This allows it to interrupt the watering cycle during rain events, which conserves water and prevents overwatering. Monitoring the system for a few days will confirm a successful transition into the watering season.