The tropical nature of Elephant Ears, which include the Colocasia and Alocasia genera, makes them highly susceptible to damage from freezing temperatures. Native to warmer regions, these plants rely on a period of winter dormancy to survive outside of consistently warm climates. Preparing the plant for this dormant phase is necessary for its survival in temperate zones, ensuring the large, starchy underground corm or tuber remains viable for the following growing season. Successful winterization depends on carefully timing the process and selecting the appropriate strategy based on the local climate.
Cutting Back the Foliage
The first step in preparing your Elephant Ear for winter is managing the foliage. Cutting back should occur only after the plant has received its first light frost. This initial cold exposure signals the plant to stop active growth and begin drawing energy back into its underground storage structure.
The leaves will visibly droop, yellow, and collapse once the frost confirms the onset of dormancy. If the leaves are cut while still green, the freshly opened wound can act as an entry point for water and pathogens, leading to rot in the tuber. Once the foliage has died back, use sharp, clean pruners to cut the stalks down to a height of approximately four to six inches above the soil line.
Leaving a short stub of the stalk attached to the tuber prevents direct injury to the tuber’s surface. This small remaining stem will eventually dry up and detach cleanly as the tuber cures.
Determining the Winterization Strategy
The decision of whether to dig up or leave the Elephant Ear in the ground depends entirely on your specific USDA Hardiness Zone. These tropical tubers will not survive prolonged exposure to soil temperatures at or below freezing. The fleshy corms are primarily composed of water, making them highly susceptible to fatal cellular damage from ice crystal formation.
Gardeners located in Zones 9 and warmer can typically leave their tubers in the ground, as these regions experience infrequent and short-lived freezes. For those in Zones 8, survival is possible but requires significant protection, making it a higher-risk strategy. Roots and tubers will begin to suffer damage when the soil temperature consistently falls below 40 degrees Fahrenheit.
If your region is classified as Zone 7 or colder, ambient temperatures will almost certainly drop low enough to freeze the soil and kill the plant’s underground structure. For these colder zones, the only reliable way to ensure the plant’s survival is to lift the tuber from the ground and store it indoors.
Preparing and Storing Tubers
For regions where the ground freezes, the tubers must be dug up and prepared for indoor storage. The ideal time for this is after the foliage has died back from a light frost, but before a deep, hard freeze has penetrated the soil. Use a garden fork, rather than a spade, to gently lift the entire root ball, starting about a foot away from the main stalk to avoid puncturing the tuber.
Once lifted, brush off the majority of the clinging soil, but refrain from washing the tuber with water, as excess moisture encourages rot. The next phase is curing, which involves placing the tubers in a dry, warm, and well-ventilated location for three to seven days. This curing period allows any wounds or cuts on the surface to dry and heal, forming a protective layer that resists fungal infection during dormancy. A temperature range between 60 and 70 degrees Fahrenheit is suitable for this process.
After curing, the tubers are ready for long-term storage in a cool, dark environment that maintains a stable temperature between 40 and 60 degrees Fahrenheit. A slightly cooler temperature, closer to 40 degrees, is better for maintaining deep dormancy. Place the cured tubers in a breathable container, such as a cardboard box or a mesh bag, and completely surround them with a dry storage medium. Materials like peat moss, vermiculite, or wood shavings work well because they insulate the tuber while wicking away any residual moisture.
Protecting Plants Left in the Ground
Gardeners in milder climates can attempt to overwinter their Elephant Ears directly in the garden. This method is only successful if the soil remains well-drained, as a combination of cold and perpetually wet soil is fatal to the tuber. If the planting area is naturally prone to retaining water, adding sand or compost to improve drainage around the plant is helpful.
The main defense against cold is the application of a thick insulating layer of mulch over the trimmed plant area. Once the foliage has been cut back, apply a generous layer of organic material such as straw, pine needles, or shredded leaves. The insulating layer should be substantial, measuring at least six to twelve inches deep, and extending well past the perimeter of the buried tuber.
This protective blanket works by stabilizing the soil temperature and preventing hard freezes from reaching the tuber. It is important to wait until all danger of frost has passed in the spring before gradually pulling back the mulch. Removing the mulch too early can expose the plant to late freezes, while leaving it too long can smother new growth.