Succulent plants are admired for their compact, geometric forms, but over time, many develop an elongated or “leggy” appearance that can look unattractive. This common issue, often referred to as stretching, is a clear sign that the plant is struggling to maintain its healthy, tight rosette shape. Fortunately, this overgrowth can be easily corrected and used to propagate new plants through a process of trimming and replanting, restoring its appealing form and ensuring its continued health.
Understanding Why Succulents Overgrow
The primary cause of this stretching is a phenomenon known as etiolation, which is the plant’s biological response to insufficient light. Succulents, which naturally thrive in environments with intense, prolonged sun exposure, will actively search for more light when their current conditions are too dim. This upward search for light causes the stem to rapidly grow longer, powered by the plant’s stored energy reserves.
As the stem elongates, the space between the leaves, known as the internode, increases significantly, resulting in a sparse and spindly look. The new growth produced during etiolation is often pale and weak because the plant cannot produce enough chlorophyll without adequate light. Once a succulent has stretched, the elongated growth cannot shrink back to its original compact form, making trimming the only way to restore its desirable shape.
Step-by-Step Guide to Trimming
The most effective method for correcting an etiolated succulent is a technique often called “beheading,” which involves removing the healthy rosette top for replanting. Before making any cuts, all tools, such as a sharp knife or clean shears, must be sterilized with rubbing alcohol to prevent the transfer of pathogens. The best time to perform this procedure is during the succulent’s active growing season, typically in the spring or early summer.
The cut should be made cleanly across the stem, ensuring the severed top retains a small portion of the stem, generally about one to two inches long, beneath the lowest ring of leaves. This retained stem section provides the necessary surface area for new roots to form. Any leaves remaining on the stem of the severed top should be gently removed to expose the stem for planting. The original, rooted base of the plant should be left in its pot, with a few leaves remaining on the stem to encourage the development of new offsets.
The severed top is now considered a cutting, and the remaining stem is the original base. This trimming process yields two potential plants: a new, compact succulent from the top cutting, and one or more new plantlets, called pups, from the original base.
Successful Replanting and Long-Term Prevention
After trimming, the fresh cut on the rosette top must be allowed to heal, or “callous,” before replanting. This involves letting the cutting sit in a dry, shaded place for three to seven days until a dry, protective layer forms over the wound. This hardened layer prevents the cutting from absorbing too much moisture and succumbing to rot when introduced to the soil.
Once the callous has formed, the cutting can be planted in well-draining succulent or cactus soil. The newly planted cutting should not be watered until new roots have visibly emerged, which can take several weeks, as water without roots will cause the stem to rot. Roots can be encouraged by placing the pot in a location that receives bright, indirect light.
Long-Term Prevention
The most important step for long-term health and preventing future stretching is adjusting the plant’s light exposure. Succulents require bright light, often six to eight hours a day, and should be moved to a brighter location, such as a south-facing window. If indoor light is insufficient, supplementing with a full-spectrum LED grow light for 12 to 14 hours daily will provide the necessary light spectrum and intensity to maintain a compact, healthy growth habit.