The Amaryllis (Hippeastrum hybrids) is a perennial bulb often treated as a seasonal decoration, but it can be forced to rebloom annually. Achieving another bloom cycle requires a comprehensive post-bloom care plan that mimics the plant’s natural life cycle. This involves trimming, a period of active growth to replenish the bulb’s energy, and a necessary rest phase.
Removing the Spent Flower Stalk
Once the last trumpet-shaped flower on the stalk begins to wilt and fade, the first step in post-bloom care is to remove the spent flower parts. Allowing the faded blooms to remain signals the plant to produce seeds, a process that expends energy the bulb needs for the following year’s bloom. Deadheading the individual flowers as they pass is helpful, but the entire hollow stem, known as the scape, must eventually be addressed.
After all blossoms have completely faded, the scape will start to soften and turn yellow on its own. Use a sharp, sterilized knife or pruning shears to cut the flower stalk cleanly, approximately one to two inches above the neck of the bulb. Leave this small stub to allow any remaining nutrients in the stalk to be pulled back into the bulb. Care must be taken not to slice into any existing foliage, as the green, strap-like leaves are the plant’s sole source of future energy.
Essential Summer Care for Leaf Growth
The period following the removal of the flower stalk is the Amaryllis’s primary growing season, where the goal is to maximize photosynthesis and energy storage. The remaining green leaves are responsible for manufacturing the food that will fuel the next bloom, making their health paramount. The plant should be moved to a location that receives bright, indirect light, such as a sunny window.
Once all danger of frost has passed in late spring, the potted plant should be transitioned outdoors for the summer. Outdoor placement in a spot that receives morning sun and afternoon shade is ideal, as intense, direct midday sun can scorch the foliage. This natural light exposure significantly boosts the plant’s ability to produce and store carbohydrates.
Throughout the summer months, the Amaryllis requires consistent moisture, though never soggy soil, to support robust leaf growth. Water the plant thoroughly whenever the top one to two inches of the potting medium feels dry to the touch. Proper drainage is necessary to prevent root rot, which can quickly compromise the bulb’s health.
Fertilization must be a regular part of this summer growth phase to ensure the bulb receives the building blocks for a large bloom. Begin feeding the plant once new leaves appear and continue until late summer, typically every two to four weeks.
A water-soluble fertilizer formulated with a higher ratio of phosphorus and potassium (the middle and third numbers in the NPK sequence) is beneficial for bulb development. Formulas such as 5-10-10 or 10-20-15, diluted to half-strength, encourage the growth of a larger, healthier bulb capable of producing multiple flower stalks.
Preparing the Bulb for Dormancy
As the summer growing season concludes, initiating a period of dormancy is required to reset the plant’s internal clock and force a rebloom. This resting phase, which typically begins in late August or early September, mimics the dry season the plant naturally experiences. To signal the end of the growth cycle, gradually stop all watering and feeding.
Stopping moisture and nutrients causes the green leaves to yellow and wither over several weeks. This yellowing indicates that stored energy is successfully transferring back into the bulb. Do not prematurely remove leaves while they are still green, as this interrupts the energy transfer process.
Once the foliage has completely browned and dried out, use clean shears to trim the leaves back, leaving a stubble of one or two inches above the bulb. Move the potted bulb to a cool, dark, and dry location, such as a basement or closet.
The ideal storage temperature for this rest period is consistently between 50 and 55 degrees Fahrenheit, which is sufficient to trigger the formation of a flower bud inside the bulb. The Amaryllis should remain in these conditions, without water, for a minimum of eight to ten weeks to complete dormancy before the next blooming cycle.