The plant commonly known as the Split Leaf Philodendron is actually Monstera deliciosa, a tropical vine celebrated for its large, fenestrated foliage. This popular houseplant grows vigorously, often developing long, trailing stems that require management over time. Trimming is a simple practice that helps control the size and shape of the plant while promoting a healthier, fuller appearance. This guide provides practical steps for trimming your plant effectively, from preparation to post-pruning care.
Timing, Goals, and Preparation
The most favorable time for significant trimming is during the plant’s active growth phase, typically from early spring through summer. Pruning during this period allows the plant to quickly heal cuts and encourages a flush of new growth. Avoid making extensive cuts during the plant’s slower, dormant period in late fall and winter.
Before trimming, establish a clear goal. Trimming for health involves removing yellowed, damaged, or dead leaves, which can be done anytime to prevent disease and redirect energy. Trimming for size and aesthetics requires removing longer, healthy stems to reduce overall bulk or encourage a bushier habit.
Preparation involves gathering sharp, clean pruning shears or a knife. Sharp blades ensure a precise cut, helping the plant heal faster. Sterilizing the cutting tool is important to prevent the transmission of bacteria or fungal pathogens. Wipe the blades down thoroughly with 70% to 91% isopropyl alcohol and allow them to air dry completely before making any cuts.
The Mechanics of Trimming
The location of the cut is the most important detail when trimming this vining plant. New growth emerges from a specific point on the vine called a node, which appears as a slightly raised ring or bump on the main stem, often where a leaf petiole or an aerial root emerges.
When reducing the length of a healthy vine, cuts must be made just above a node. Cutting above the node encourages the plant to activate the dormant bud, initiating new growth and preventing the stem from dying back. Making the cut at a slight angle can also help water run off the wound, promoting faster healing.
To remove a yellowed or damaged leaf, trace the leaf stem (petiole) back toward the main stem. Make a clean cut as close to the main stem as possible without damaging the central growth point. This directs the plant’s energy toward producing new, healthy leaves instead of maintaining dying foliage.
The plant also produces aerial roots, which grow from the nodes. If these roots become too long or unsightly, they can be trimmed for aesthetic purposes without harming the plant. Since the plant receives most of its moisture from the soil, removing a portion of the aerial roots is safe.
Propagation and Post-Pruning Recovery
Healthy stem sections removed during trimming can be used to grow new plants, provided each cutting includes at least one node. A cutting without a node will not develop new roots. The ideal cutting includes one leaf and a short section of stem with a prominent node.
Cuttings can be rooted in water or directly into a moist, well-draining potting medium. If propagating in water, submerge the node completely and change the water every few days. Once roots are one to two inches long, the new plant can be potted in soil to encourage a stronger root system.
After trimming, the parent plant requires monitoring. You may notice “bleeding,” where a clear, milky sap leaks from the fresh cuts as the plant seals the wound. This sap contains calcium oxalate crystals and can be a mild skin irritant, so wearing gloves is advisable.
Slightly reduce watering for a few days following a significant trim, as the plant has fewer leaves to transpire moisture. Ensure the plant remains in its usual location with bright, indirect light to support healing and new growth. Do not apply wound sealing products, as the plant naturally forms a protective barrier.