The Spathiphyllum, commonly known as the Peace Lily, is a popular houseplant due to its glossy foliage and elegant white blooms. Brown tips, or “tipping,” are the most frequent visual symptom of distress. This browning indicates the plant is unable to transport moisture effectively to the leaf margins, often due to mineral burn or dehydration stress. Addressing the problem requires a methodical approach, starting with immediate cosmetic fixes and moving toward adjustments in watering, environment, and soil composition.
Immediate Action: Pruning and Initial Assessment
The first step is to physically remove the damaged tissue, which will not turn green again. Use clean, sharp shears or scissors to trim the brown area, following the natural curve of the leaf to maintain an appealing shape. Leave a tiny margin of brown tissue remaining to avoid cutting into healthy green cells, which can trigger further browning.
After pruning, assess the soil moisture to guide your next steps. Insert a finger one to two inches deep into the potting mix. If the soil feels bone dry and the tips are crispy, the problem is likely underwatering. Conversely, if the soil is saturated and the brown tips feel soft, overwatering may have led to root issues, preventing proper water absorption.
Water Quality and Hydration Correction
Watering inconsistencies are the most frequent cause of brown tipping, but water quality is also a major factor. Tap water often contains dissolved mineral salts and chemical additives like chlorine and fluoride. These accumulate in the soil and are pushed out to the leaf tips, causing a chemical burn. Fluoride, in particular, is toxic to many Spathiphyllum species.
To mitigate the effects of chlorine, simply draw tap water into an open container and let it sit for at least 24 hours, allowing the chemical to dissipate into the air. For the more persistent fluoride and other mineral salts, using distilled water, filtered water, or collected rainwater is the most effective long-term solution.
The correct watering method is to follow a “soak and dry” approach, ensuring the soil remains consistently moist but not waterlogged. Water thoroughly until it drains out of the bottom holes, then discard any excess water from the saucer to prevent root rot. If brown tips have already formed, “flushing” the soil is necessary. Slowly pour a volume of clean, non-tap water that is two to three times the pot’s volume through the soil to wash away accumulated salts.
Addressing Environmental Stressors
Peace Lilies require high ambient humidity, which is often lacking indoors. When the air is too dry, the leaves lose moisture faster than the roots can replace it, resulting in brown and crunchy tips. Maintaining humidity levels above 40%, and ideally between 50% and 60%, significantly reduces leaf browning.
Practical ways to increase local humidity include placing the plant on a pebble tray filled with water, ensuring the pot itself is not touching the water, or grouping it with other plants. Using a small room humidifier nearby provides the most consistent and beneficial boost of moisture.
Temperature consistency is equally important, as these plants thrive in a warm environment, ideally between 65°F and 80°F. Sudden drops in temperature or exposure to cold drafts from windows, doors, or air conditioning vents can shock the foliage and lead to browning or blackening of the leaves. Conversely, direct, harsh sunlight should be avoided, as it can physically scorch the leaves. A spot with bright, indirect light is best.
Managing Soil Health and Nutrient Levels
The soil can contribute to brown tipping, particularly when saturated with mineral salts from fertilizers. Peace Lilies are sensitive to over-fertilization, which causes “fertilizer burn.” Excess nutrient salts draw water out of the root cells, impairing hydration and causing brown necrosis at the leaf tips. A white crust visible on the soil surface or pot rim indicates this salt buildup.
To prevent this, fertilizer should be applied sparingly, using a balanced, water-soluble product diluted to half the recommended strength. Only fertilize during the active growing season of spring and summer, roughly every four to six weeks, and withhold feeding completely during the dormant winter months.
If severe browning persists despite correcting water and environmental issues, the plant may be root-bound or the soil may be too old. When roots completely fill the pot, they cannot efficiently absorb water and nutrients, leading to stress. Repotting into a container one size larger with fresh, well-draining potting mix helps reset soil health and allows for root expansion.