Flying squirrels are strictly nocturnal mammals that use a unique patagium—a furry membrane extending between their wrists and ankles—to glide between trees. They are significantly smaller than gray squirrels, typically weighing one to four ounces and measuring eight to twelve inches long, including their tails. When temperatures drop, these social creatures often seek warmth and shelter in human structures, frequently congregating in attics or wall voids. This guide provides safe, effective, and humane methods for removing flying squirrels from a home and preventing their return.
Confirming Their Presence and Entry Points
Positive identification relies on specific signs, as their nocturnal nature means they are rarely seen during the day. Homeowners often report hearing faint scratching, scurrying, or light thumping noises beginning around sunset and continuing until dawn. These sounds are distinct from the louder, daytime activity of larger animals like gray squirrels or raccoons.
Their droppings provide another clue, as flying squirrels tend to establish communal latrines, resulting in concentrated piles of waste. The feces appear as small, dark, and elongated pellets, much smaller than those left by a gray squirrel. Locating the entry point is crucial, as these tiny animals can squeeze through surprisingly small gaps, often requiring an opening only the size of a quarter. Common access points include loose roof vents, damaged fascia boards, and openings where utility lines penetrate the exterior.
Sealing Access Points Before Removal
Removal begins with exclusion, which requires sealing all secondary entry points before addressing the main exit. Perform a thorough inspection of the roofline, chimney flashing, soffits, and any gaps where trim boards meet the siding. Neglecting a small hole can allow a squirrel to re-enter and become trapped, which is inhumane and counterproductive.
Sealing materials must be durable enough to resist chewing. Materials like quarter-inch hardware cloth, thick-gauge copper mesh, or sheet metal flashing are superior to standard caulk or plastic screening for permanent exclusion. For temporary sealing of smaller cracks, a strong, thick exterior-grade caulk can be used.
Once secondary holes are secured, the single, primary exit hole must be identified, often by observing activity at dusk or dawn. Install a specialized one-way exclusion door or funnel over this main hole. This device is typically a metal or wire mesh tube that allows the squirrel to push its way out but prevents re-entry, ensuring the animals can exit freely to forage but cannot get back inside.
Humane Trapping Techniques and Relocation
While exclusion is preferred, direct live-trapping may be necessary if a squirrel is found inside a living space or if exclusion fails. A small, multi-catch, or repeater live trap is the most appropriate selection for flying squirrels. These traps are designed to catch multiple small animals without harming them, which is necessary since flying squirrels often live in large family groups.
Effective baits include a mixture of peanut butter and rolled oats, sunflower seeds, or various nuts. The trap should be placed directly in the attic, along a confirmed travel path, or adjacent to the main exit hole. The trap must be checked frequently—at least every few hours—to minimize stress and exposure for the captured animal.
Before trapping or relocation, consult local wildlife laws, as flying squirrels are protected in certain jurisdictions. Relocation requires releasing the animal several miles away, typically a minimum distance of twenty-five miles, in a suitable wooded environment far from human residences. Relocating them a shorter distance may result in the squirrels returning to the home or becoming a nuisance elsewhere.
Cleanup and Long-Term Prevention
Once activity has ceased and the main exclusion device is removed and the hole sealed, sanitation is the next step. Flying squirrel droppings and urine pose specific health risks, including the transmission of Typhus fever (particularly from the Southern flying squirrel species), Leptospirosis, and Salmonella bacteria.
Attic spaces and nesting sites must be thoroughly sanitized using protective gear, including a respirator and gloves. Carefully bag and remove all soiled insulation and nesting materials. Surfaces should then be treated with an enzyme cleaner or a diluted bleach solution to break down biological contaminants and eliminate residual odors that could attract other rodents.
Long-Term Prevention
For long-term prevention, eliminate access routes. This involves trimming all tree branches that hang within six to eight feet of the roofline, removing the squirrels’ natural gliding launch points onto the house. Additionally, conduct annual or bi-annual inspections of the entire roof system, including vents and flashing, to ensure no new gaps have developed.