Moving a tree requires careful planning to ensure its survival in a new environment. This process focuses on small to medium-sized specimens, generally those with a trunk diameter (caliper) between 1 and 3 inches, measured six inches above the soil line. Trees of this size are manageable with manual labor and light equipment, unlike larger operations that use specialized hydraulic tree spades. Success hinges on minimizing stress to the root system and supporting the tree’s transition.
Pre-Transport Preparation
The timing of the transplant is a significant factor in promoting healthy recovery. The best chance for survival is when the tree is dormant, typically in late fall after leaf drop or early spring before bud break. During dormancy, the tree’s metabolic activity slows, reducing the immediate demand for water and nutrients. This allows the tree to focus energy on root establishment rather than supporting new foliage.
Prior to digging, prepare the tree and the soil. Thoroughly watering the soil a few days before the move stabilizes the soil structure, helping to keep the root ball intact during excavation. Selective pruning to reduce the canopy mass is beneficial, as it decreases the leaf surface area that will lose water through transpiration after the move. Finally, mark one side of the trunk, such as the north-facing side, with tape or paint. This allows for correct orientation in the new location, helping the bark adapt to the same sun exposure.
Excavating and Protecting the Root Ball
Excavation is the most delicate part of the transplant process, requiring preservation of a sufficient root system within an intact soil ball. The size of the root ball is determined by the tree’s caliper. The industry standard recommends a minimum of 10 to 12 inches of ball diameter for every 1 inch of trunk caliper. For example, a 3-inch caliper tree requires a root ball approximately 30 to 36 inches in diameter. The depth of the ball should correspond to the diameter to ensure the majority of the fibrous roots are captured.
Begin excavation by digging a circular trench around the tree, following the determined diameter, and cutting cleanly through the roots with a sharp spade. Once the trench reaches the proper depth, carefully undercut the soil ball to sever the taproot and any remaining lateral roots. The goal is to keep the soil ball cohesive. A broken ball severs the fine feeder roots from the moisture and nutrients they contain.
To maintain soil integrity during movement, the root ball must be immediately secured using “balling and burlapping.” Start by sliding natural burlap beneath the ball, then wrap the sides securely and tie the fabric tightly around the trunk flare with strong twine or rope. For larger balls, a wire basket placed around the burlap provides structural support to prevent the heavy soil from crumbling. After securing, keep the root ball consistently moist and protected from drying wind and direct sun exposure until it is loaded for transit.
Securing and Loading for Transit
Moving the secured root ball requires careful consideration of its significant weight; a 3-inch caliper tree with a 32-inch root ball can weigh several hundred pounds. Avoid manual lifting, as handling the tree by its trunk can damage the bark and loosen the root ball from the soil, a process called “breaking the ball.” Instead, lift the root ball using a heavy-duty dolly, a mechanical hoist, or by rolling it up a sturdy ramp onto the transport vehicle.
Position the tree on the transport vehicle, such as a flatbed trailer or truck bed, with the root ball stabilized against a solid surface. If transporting the tree horizontally, support the root ball and the trunk to prevent rolling or shifting during the journey. Protect the trunk from abrasions by wrapping it with soft material, such as burlap or thick cardboard, wherever it contacts the vehicle or securing straps.
Use wide, non-abrasive straps or ropes to secure the root ball and the trunk firmly to the vehicle, ensuring securing points are not placed on the bark. Gently tie the canopy branches up and inward with soft rope or fabric strips to reduce their spread and prevent breakage from wind shear. Transporting the tree flat or covering the canopy with a breathable tarp helps protect the foliage from desiccation caused by high winds during transit.
Settling the Tree in its New Location
Preparation of the new planting site should be completed before the tree arrives to minimize root ball exposure time. The planting hole must be dug wide, ideally two to three times the diameter of the root ball, but not deeper than its height. This wide, shallow hole encourages the tree’s roots to grow outward into the surrounding native soil.
Once the tree is carefully placed in the center of the hole, check its alignment to ensure the trunk is vertical. The root flare—where the trunk widens at the base—must be positioned at or slightly above the surrounding soil grade. Planting too deeply is a common error that can lead to suffocated roots and decline. After positioning, remove any twine and wire from the trunk and the top of the root ball. Cut and pull back the top one-third of the burlap and wire basket, if present, to allow for unrestricted root growth.
Backfill the hole with the original soil, breaking up large clumps, and gently firming it to eliminate air pockets without excessive compaction. After backfilling, the tree requires thorough watering to settle the soil and ensure good root-to-soil contact. Apply a 2- to 3-inch layer of organic mulch over the planting area, keeping it a few inches away from the trunk to prevent moisture buildup and disease. Temporary staking may be necessary on windy sites to stabilize the root ball, but stakes must allow for slight trunk movement and be removed within the first year.