Moving a tree from a wooded area to a new landscape setting requires careful planning to ensure survival. The process, often called balling and burlapping (B&B), inherently causes a severe loss of the root system, placing the tree under significant stress. This technique is reserved for smaller trees, as larger specimens rarely survive the shock of losing established roots. Successfully moving a native species preserves local genetic diversity and offers a cost-effective way to acquire landscaping material. Adherence to proper techniques minimizes trauma and gives the tree the best opportunity to thrive in its new location.
Essential Planning Before Digging
Selecting the appropriate specimen is the first step in successful tree relocation, as smaller trees handle the trauma of transplanting far better than larger ones. The trunk diameter, or caliper, should ideally be less than two inches when measured six inches above the ground. This size limits the necessary root ball to a manageable weight and size. Choose only a healthy, symmetrical specimen from a location that is not overly crowded, examining the tree for signs of disease, insect damage, or poor structure.
Timing the move is equally important, as the tree must be dormant to reduce the shock of root loss. The ideal transplanting window is in the late fall, after the leaves have dropped, or in the early spring, before new buds begin to break. Moving a tree while it is actively growing can be fatal because the reduced root system cannot supply enough water to the foliage. Before beginning any physical work, you must secure permission if the tree is not on your property, respecting local regulations.
Once a healthy, appropriately sized tree is selected, preparatory measures increase the likelihood of success. Mark the side of the trunk that faces north with flagging or paint; maintaining this orientation during replanting helps prevent sunscald. Water the area thoroughly a day or two before excavation to hydrate the tree and help the soil cling to the fine roots, ensuring a stable root ball. The new planting site must be fully prepared before the tree is removed, ensuring the roots are exposed for the shortest time possible.
Proper Technique for Extracting the Root Ball
The root ball size is determined by the trunk caliper, aiming for 10 to 12 inches of diameter for every inch of caliper. For example, a two-inch trunk requires a root ball 20 to 24 inches across. This measurement defines the circumference where the initial trench will be dug. Use a sharp spade to cleanly sever the lateral roots, digging straight down 18 to 24 inches deep.
Once the trench is established, undercut the root ball to sever the deeper taproots. Carefully angle the spade inward and downward beneath the root ball, working around the entire circumference. This severance must minimize disturbance to the soil mass surrounding the fine feeder roots, which handle water and nutrient absorption. The goal is to create a solid, cylindrical mass of earth held together by the remaining roots.
After the root ball is fully separated, secure it for transport to prevent crumbling. Gently tip the tree and slide a large piece of burlap or heavy canvas underneath, then roll the tree back onto the fabric. Pull the burlap up around the sides of the soil ball and secure it tightly with twine or rope to keep the mass intact and moist. Always lift and carry the tree by supporting the weight of the root ball from the bottom, never by pulling on the trunk.
Replanting the Tree in its New Location
The planting hole at the destination site should be prepared to be two to three times wider than the diameter of the root ball. This width provides loose, uncompacted soil that encourages new root growth outward into the landscape. The hole’s depth, however, must be precisely measured to be no deeper than the height of the root ball itself. Planting too deeply is a common error that can suffocate the roots, leading to long-term decline.
Before placing the tree, you may need to score the sides of the hole with a shovel, especially if the soil is dense clay. This prevents the smooth walls from acting like a pot that restricts root expansion. Position the tree in the hole so that the root flare, the area where the trunk visibly widens at the base, is slightly above the surrounding grade. This elevation accounts for natural settling of the soil and ensures the flare remains exposed to the air.
Once the tree is positioned correctly, remove all securing materials from the top of the root ball. Cut and remove any ropes, wires, or non-biodegradable materials. Fold the burlap back from the top third of the ball to allow roots to grow directly into the surrounding soil. Use the original excavated soil to backfill the hole, tamping gently to eliminate large air pockets. Create a small ring or berm of soil just outside the planting hole to contain water and direct it toward the root zone.
Ensuring Long-Term Survival After Transplant
Immediate care focuses on hydration and protection to help the tree overcome transplant shock. After backfilling, the tree needs a thorough, deep watering to settle the soil and fully saturate the root ball. For the first year of establishment, maintain a regular watering regimen, typically supplying the equivalent of one inch of water per week, adjusted for rainfall and soil type.
A two-to-four-inch layer of organic mulch, such as wood chips, should be applied over the planting area, extending out to the edge of the backfilled soil. Mulch conserves soil moisture, moderates soil temperature, and suppresses competing weeds, all of which benefit the recovering root system. Keep the mulch several inches away from the trunk itself to ensure the root flare remains dry and exposed, preventing bark decay and pest issues.
The tree will likely exhibit signs of transplant shock, such as wilting leaves, premature fall color, or a lack of new growth. The appropriate response is consistent water management, not fertilization, which should be avoided in the first year. Fertilizers high in nitrogen stimulate leaf growth when the roots cannot support it, potentially worsening the stress. Patience and attentive watering are the most effective treatments during recovery.