A perennial is a plant that lives for more than two years, returning reliably each season. Gardeners frequently move these established plants to correct insufficient light, relieve overcrowding, or accommodate a new garden design. Successfully transplanting a perennial minimizes stress, ensuring its return and vigor in the new location. This process requires careful timing and proper technique.
Determining the Best Time for Moving
The most successful perennial transplants occur when the plant is not actively growing or flowering, minimizing stress on the root system. This window falls into two primary periods: early spring and early fall. Early spring is optimal just as the soil thaws and before new shoots emerge, allowing the plant to focus energy on root establishment before summer heat.
Early fall, four to six weeks before the first hard frost, is also an excellent time for relocation. Air temperatures are cooler, but the soil retains enough warmth to encourage new root growth before winter dormancy. Avoid moving plants during the heat of summer, as active top growth demands more water than the temporarily damaged root system can supply.
Consider the plant’s bloom schedule when planning a move. Transplant spring-flowering perennials in the fall and fall-flowering perennials in the spring. Some species, like peonies and bearded iris, respond best to an early fall move regardless of their bloom time.
Preparing the Plant and the New Site
Preparing the perennial a day before the move helps ensure success. Heavily water the existing plant 12 to 24 hours prior to digging. This ensures roots are fully hydrated and helps the soil cling to the root mass, keeping the root ball intact. Reducing the foliage mass also decreases water loss through transpiration after the move.
Prune back the top growth by about one-third to signal the plant to redirect energy toward root recovery. The new site should be completely ready for immediate replanting. Dig the receiving hole two to three times wider than the perennial’s current root ball, allowing new roots to spread easily into softened soil.
The depth of the new hole should only be as deep as the root ball itself. Incorporating organic matter, such as compost, into the backfill soil improves structure and moisture retention. Having the new location ready prevents the plant’s roots from drying out while waiting to be replanted.
Executing the Transplant
Moving the perennial requires careful execution to preserve the maximum amount of the root system. Begin by using a sharp spade to cut a circle around the plant, placing the spade several inches outside the plant’s crown to capture a substantial root mass. Push the spade straight down to sever the surrounding roots cleanly.
Once the circle is cut, gently work the spade underneath the root ball, leveraging it up and out of the ground. The goal is to lift the entire root ball with as much attached soil as possible, which prevents the finer feeder roots from drying out and minimizes disturbance. For larger specimens, slide a piece of burlap or a tarp underneath the root ball before lifting and moving it.
Set the perennial into the prepared hole so that the plant’s crown (the point where the roots meet the stem) is level with or slightly above the surrounding grade. Planting too deeply can lead to crown rot. Backfill the hole with the amended soil, gently firming it to eliminate air pockets around the roots. Finish the process with a deep, thorough watering to settle the soil and fully hydrate the roots.
Essential Care After Moving
Consistent and deep watering is essential for the perennial’s recovery and establishment. Immediately after transplanting, provide a slow, deep soak to fully saturate the new root zone and eliminate any remaining air pockets. For the first few weeks, the soil around the plant needs to be kept consistently moist but not waterlogged.
As the plant begins to settle, gradually transition to a less frequent but deeper watering regime. This encourages the roots to grow downward and seek moisture. Consistent moisture is required throughout the entire first growing season, as the plant needs time to regenerate the fine root hairs lost during the move. Monitor the plant daily for signs of stress, such as wilting or yellowing foliage.
If transplanting during warmer weather, providing temporary protection from intense sun and wind can help mitigate water loss. A temporary shade structure or shade cloth positioned to block the harshest afternoon sun can ease the transition. Finally, apply a two to three-inch layer of organic mulch over the root zone, ensuring it is kept a few inches away from the plant’s crown to prevent moisture buildup and potential rot.