Lavender is prized for its fragrance and durability, but moving an established plant requires careful planning. Successful transplanting depends on minimizing root exposure and ensuring the new environment matches the plant’s specific needs. A precise, step-by-step approach helps the plant establish new roots and thrive in its new location.
Optimal Timing and Site Selection
The best time to transplant lavender is during mild weather, specifically early spring or early fall, when temperatures are moderate and the plant is not actively flowering. Moving the plant in early spring allows the root system to establish itself before summer heat. Transplanting in early autumn requires at least four to six weeks before the first hard frost for root development.
Selecting the new location is paramount to the plant’s long-term survival, as lavender needs full sun exposure for at least six to eight hours each day. The soil must offer excellent drainage, replicating the herb’s native rocky, sandy, or gravelly environment. Amending heavy clay soil with grit or coarse sand is necessary to prevent waterlogging, which leads to root rot. Preparing the new planting hole before disturbing the lavender minimizes root exposure time.
Executing the Transplant
To prepare the lavender for the move, prune the foliage back by about one-third. This reduces the leaf surface area and limits water loss through transpiration after the roots are cut. Deeply watering the plant 24 hours before the move helps the soil cling to the fine root hairs, keeping the root ball intact. A moist root ball is less likely to crumble during the lifting process.
Begin digging a wide trench around the base of the plant, starting six to twelve inches out from the stem, depending on the plant’s size. The goal is to capture as much of the root mass as possible, since severed roots cannot absorb water, leading to transplant shock. Use a sharp spade to cut straight down, defining the root ball circumference, then work the spade underneath the root mass to gently lift the plant.
Once the root ball is loose, lift it carefully and immediately place it onto burlap or a tarp for support and transit. The new hole should be dug twice as wide as the root ball but only as deep as its height. This width provides loose soil for new root growth, while the depth ensures the crown remains at or slightly above the surrounding soil level.
Set the lavender into the new hole, ensuring the crown (where the stems meet the roots) is not buried. Backfill gently with the amended soil, firming it lightly to eliminate large air pockets without compressing the soil. Compacting the soil inhibits oxygen flow, which is necessary for root respiration and new growth.
Post-Transplant Recovery and Care
Immediately after planting, water the lavender deeply at the base to settle the soil around the roots and eliminate air pockets. This initial watering is followed by a period of careful, restrained moisture management. For the next few weeks, water only when the top one to two inches of soil has become completely dry.
Overwatering is the most common cause of failure in transplanted lavender because constant moisture suffocates the roots, promoting rot. Monitor the plant daily for signs of transplant shock, such as wilting or yellowing leaves. Providing temporary shade during the hottest part of the day for the first week reduces stress while the root system attempts to re-establish its function.
Avoid applying fertilizer during the recovery period, as the high salt content can burn damaged roots and hinder establishment. A light layer of gravel or pea stone mulch can be applied around the base to maintain soil temperature and moisture. Always keep the mulch pulled back several inches from the plant’s crown to ensure good air circulation and prevent moisture accumulation against the woody stems, which causes fungal disease.