Ground cover refers to low-growing plants that form a dense mat of foliage over large areas of soil, which helps to suppress weed growth and control erosion. This type of planting can include various species, from woody vines to herbaceous perennials, all selected for their spreading habit. People commonly transplant ground cover to thin out overcrowded patches, propagate existing plants into new areas, or relocate them to a site with better environmental conditions. The process offers an inexpensive way to fill a garden space, but success depends heavily on proper planning and careful technique to minimize stress on the root systems.
Pre-Transplant Planning and Site Preparation
The best time to move ground cover is typically during the cooler seasons of early spring or fall. This timing allows the plants to establish a robust root system before the stress of summer heat or winter cold. Fall transplanting is particularly beneficial because the soil is still warm from the summer, encouraging root growth, while the air temperature is cooler, reducing water loss through the leaves. Aim to transplant four to six weeks before the first hard ground freeze for maximum acclimation.
Before disturbing the existing patch, the new destination must be fully prepared to ensure a swift transition. Begin by clearing the new area of all turfgrass and weeds, as these will compete with the newly planted ground cover for water and nutrients. Next, loosen the soil to a depth of at least six to eight inches to encourage deep root penetration. Incorporating organic matter, such as a two-inch layer of compost or well-rotted manure, will improve the soil structure, enhancing both drainage and water retention.
It is also important to confirm that the new site’s light and moisture conditions are appropriate for the specific ground cover species being moved. To minimize the risk of transplant shock, water the ground cover thoroughly about 24 hours before lifting. This ensures the plants are fully saturated and the soil around the roots is cohesive, preventing the roots from drying out immediately upon removal.
Techniques for Lifting and Dividing Ground Cover
Physical removal requires tools that allow for clean cuts and minimal root damage. For dense, established patches, a sharp, flat-bladed spade or a hori-hori knife is effective for cutting the continuous mat into manageable sections. The goal is to dig around the perimeter of the chosen section, ensuring that as much of the root mass as possible is preserved.
If the ground cover is a perennial that has formed a dense clump, you will need to divide it to create multiple new plants. This is done by cutting the section into smaller pieces using a sharp knife or spade. Each new division must contain both foliage and a healthy portion of the root system. Dividing the plant reduces competition among the roots and encourages new, vigorous growth.
For plants that spread by runners, division can be as simple as cutting the connection between the main plant and the rooted runner. Once lifted, the root sections should be kept moist and out of direct sunlight while the final planting holes are dug. Placing the sections in a wheelbarrow or bucket lined with a damp cloth prevents the delicate root hairs from drying out, which compromises the plant’s ability to absorb water after replanting.
Replanting and Settling the New Area
Replant the freshly lifted sections quickly to maintain root moisture and reduce the period of stress. Planting holes should be dug wide enough to accommodate the root mass without crowding them. The top of the root ball or the crown of the plant must be set level with the surrounding soil surface. Planting deeper can lead to stem rot, while planting too shallow can cause the roots to dry out.
Spacing affects how quickly the area is covered; closer spacing results in a faster, denser mat, while wider spacing is more economical but takes longer. After placing the plant, backfill the hole with the prepared soil mixture and gently firm the soil around the base to eliminate air pockets. Air pockets can dry out roots and hinder water absorption.
To aid in the initial establishment, create a small, temporary soil berm or basin around the perimeter of the newly planted area. This ridge helps to capture and direct water inward, ensuring that a deep, thorough initial watering soaks directly into the root zone. This first deep watering settles the soil, eliminates remaining air pockets, and immediately hydrates the newly disturbed roots.
Ongoing Care for Successful Establishment
The weeks immediately following transplanting require a consistent watering schedule to encourage new root growth. Keep the soil consistently moist but never saturated, as overwatering can lead to root rot. A typical schedule involves daily watering for the first week, transitioning to every other day in the second week, and then two or three times a week for the remainder of the first month.
Monitor the plants closely for signs of transplant shock, such as wilting leaves or browning on the edges. If the plant is struggling due to intense sun exposure, especially for species that prefer shade, providing temporary cover with shade cloth can reduce water loss through the leaves. Once new growth is visible, indicating the roots are actively taking up nutrients, taper the watering frequency to encourage the roots to grow deeper in search of moisture.
Hold off on applying any granular fertilizer immediately after transplanting, as this can burn the already stressed roots. The organic matter added during site preparation provides sufficient slow-release nutrition for the initial growth phase. Once new foliage is evident, apply a light application of a balanced, slow-release fertilizer to support the energy demands of the expanding root system and spreading canopy.