Transplanting an established evergreen tree is a challenging horticultural task because these trees constantly lose moisture through their needles, even in winter. Unlike deciduous trees, evergreens require their root systems to remain active year-round to replenish this continuous water loss. Success depends entirely on meticulous planning and execution, minimizing damage to the root system that supplies this constant moisture. This guide provides a detailed process to successfully move your evergreen.
Timing and Pre-Transplant Preparation
The most favorable time for transplanting evergreens is either in the early spring, just before the first flush of new growth appears, or in the late summer to early fall. These periods allow the tree time to initiate new root growth before the next environmental challenge, avoiding the severe water stress of summer heat. Early spring allows the tree the entire growing season to establish new roots, while a fall move permits root growth in the still-warm soil before the ground freezes.
Preparation begins well before the actual move to encourage the development of a dense, compact root ball that is easier to transport and experiences less shock. For larger trees, root pruning should be initiated six to twelve months prior to the transplant date. This involves cleanly cutting the roots around the perimeter of the desired root ball size with a sharp spade, stimulating the growth of fine, water-absorbing feeder roots closer to the trunk.
To determine the appropriate root ball size, measure the trunk’s diameter (caliper) six inches above the soil line. A standard rule of thumb is that for every one inch of trunk caliper, the root ball should have a diameter of ten to twelve inches. This ratio ensures the retention of enough roots for the tree’s survival. Once the radius is marked, deeply water the area two days before the move; this hydrates the tree and helps the soil hold together during the digging process.
The Digging and Moving Process
The physical act of digging must be performed with precision to keep the root ball intact, as crumbling the soil mass severs delicate feeder roots. Using a sharp, straight-edged spade, cut straight down along the marked circumference, cleanly severing all roots. Then, undercut the ball at a shallow, inward angle, shaping it into a rounded, inverted cone that is easier to lift and stabilize.
As you excavate, cut any larger roots cleanly with loppers, being careful not to fracture the main soil mass. Once the root ball is separated from the subsoil, it must be immediately secured to prevent disintegration, the leading cause of transplant failure. For smaller trees, a sheet of natural burlap (never plastic) is placed under the ball, wrapped, and tightly secured around the trunk base with twine or large nails to hold the soil in place.
For heavier specimens, the burlap is often supplemented with a wire basket placed around the root ball. Because the weight of a soil-filled root ball can be substantial, a tree dolly or mechanical assistance may be necessary for transport. The entire secured mass must be carefully lifted and moved to the new location, ensuring the root ball remains stable and no soil is lost during the move.
Replanting and Initial Setup
Preparation of the new planting site should be completed before the tree is dug from its original location to minimize root exposure time. The new hole must be significantly wider than the root ball, ideally two to three times its diameter, but its depth is strictly limited. The hole should be dug so that the top of the root ball rests one to two inches above the surrounding grade after planting.
Planting an evergreen too deeply is a common error that can suffocate the roots and lead to decline. Once the tree is centered in the hole, remove or cut away all materials that could girdle the trunk or inhibit future root growth. This includes any rope, twine, or the top portion of the burlap and wire basket, as these materials can constrict the developing root flare over time.
Backfill the hole with the original soil, gently tamping it down to remove any large air pockets that could dry out the new roots. Do not amend the soil heavily, as this discourages roots from growing out into the surrounding native soil. After backfilling is complete, perform the first thorough watering; this soaking settles the soil around the root ball and establishes the necessary soil-to-root contact for water uptake.
Crucial Post-Transplant Care
The first one to three years following the move are crucial for the tree’s long-term survival, as the evergreen slowly regenerates the extensive root system lost during the move. During this period, the tree is vulnerable to transplant shock, which can manifest as browning needles, stunted growth, or general decline. Consistent, deep watering is the most important maintenance task during this establishment phase.
Watering should be deep and infrequent, encouraging roots to grow downward rather than remaining shallow near the soil surface. Saturate the entire root ball once a week during warm, dry weather, ensuring the water penetrates to a depth of at least twelve inches. Avoid daily, light sprinkles, as these do not promote the development of a healthy, drought-tolerant root system.
Application of an organic mulch layer is beneficial for moisture retention and temperature moderation around the new roots. Spread a two to four-inch layer of wood chips or shredded bark over the backfilled area, but pull the mulch several inches away from the trunk. Mulch contacting the trunk can trap moisture, encouraging fungal diseases and creating a habitat for rodents. Any necessary staking to stabilize the tree against strong winds should be removed after the first year to allow the trunk to develop strength naturally.