Blackberries are vigorous growers. Successfully transplanting them usually involves moving root sections or young suckers rather than relocating a fully mature, established crown. The plant’s natural tendency to spread via suckering means transplanting can be successful if done correctly and at the right time. This process allows gardeners to expand their patch, move plants to a more suitable location, or divide a robust bush. Following a precise procedure minimizes transplant shock and maximizes the plant’s chance of quickly establishing itself.
Optimal Timing and Preparation
Transplanting blackberries should occur during their dormant period to minimize stress on the plant’s system. This window is typically in late fall after the leaves have dropped or in early spring before new buds begin to break. Moving the plants while dormant ensures the plant’s energy focuses on root establishment rather than supporting active leaf and cane growth.
The new planting site requires full sun exposure, ideally six to eight hours daily, for the best fruit production and cane health. The soil must be well-draining, with a moderately acidic to neutral pH range of 5.8 to 6.8. If the existing soil is heavy or poorly draining, amending it with well-aged compost or manure will improve structure and fertility.
Before digging, prepare the plant by pruning the canes back significantly. Cutting the canes down to a manageable height, such as 6 to 12 inches, reduces the surface area from which the plant can lose water once its root system is disturbed. This directs the plant’s resources toward root development in the new location.
The Physical Transplanting Process
Begin by digging a generous hole in the new location, approximately twice as wide as the blackberry plant’s root ball. The depth should be roughly the same as the root ball’s height, as blackberries do not have deep roots. Preparing the new hole before digging up the plant minimizes the time the roots are exposed to air, reducing transplant shock.
To remove the existing plant or sucker, use a sharp spade to dig a wide trench around the base, taking as much of the root system as possible to keep the root ball intact. For an established plant, aim to lift a root ball at least a foot wide. Carefully work the spade under the root ball to lift the entire mass from the soil.
If the roots must be exposed, wrap the root ball in wet burlap or place it in a plastic bag to keep the roots moist. When placing the plant in the new hole, ensure the crown—where the canes meet the roots—is set at the same soil depth it was previously growing. Planting too deep can suffocate the crown and inhibit new cane growth.
Backfill the hole with the amended soil, gently firming it down to eliminate air pockets around the roots. Creating a small, raised ring of soil around the edge forms a watering basin that directs water to the root zone. Once secured, a thorough, deep watering is required to settle the soil and ensure good root-to-soil contact.
Immediate Post-Transplant Care
Immediately following planting, a deep soaking is necessary to hydrate the roots and eliminate air pockets. Water the area thoroughly until the water penetrates the depth of the root ball. Consistent moisture is necessary for the first few weeks as the plant establishes itself, but avoid waterlogging the soil, which can lead to root rot.
Apply a two- to three-inch layer of organic mulch, such as shredded bark or straw, around the base of the plant to conserve soil moisture and regulate temperature. Ensure the mulch does not directly touch the base of the pruned canes, as this can trap excessive moisture and encourage pests or disease.
Since blackberries require support, install a trellis or wire system now if one is not already in place. Monitor the transplanted blackberry closely for signs of stress, such as wilting or discoloration, during the initial establishment period. Above-ground growth may be slow for the first season as the plant prioritizes developing a strong root system.