Bermuda grass is a warm-season turf that forms a dense lawn under full sun exposure. It is a popular choice for high-traffic areas due to its deep root system and aggressive spreading habit via stolons and rhizomes. Successful transplanting requires careful preparation and adherence to specific timing to ensure the vegetative material establishes firmly.
Preparing the Site and Timing the Transplant
The success of a Bermuda grass transplant is determined by timing, specifically when the soil is warm enough to support rapid growth. The optimal window for planting is late spring through early summer, after the risk of frost has passed. Soil temperatures must be consistently above 65°F, measured at a depth of two inches, as cooler temperatures delay root development and increase the chance of disease.
Preparation involves thoroughly removing all existing vegetation, either physically or using a non-selective herbicide. Bermuda grass prefers a slightly acidic to neutral soil pH, ideally ranging between 6.0 and 6.5, which a soil test can confirm. The area should then be tilled four to six inches deep to loosen compacted material, improve drainage, and allow new roots to penetrate easily.
Collecting the Bermuda Grass Material
Transplanting Bermuda grass can be achieved using three main types of vegetative material, each offering a different balance of cost, labor, and establishment speed.
Sod
Sod provides instant coverage and density, representing the highest initial cost and requiring the least time to establish a functional lawn. It is harvested in thin layers, complete with the existing root system and soil.
Plugs
Plugs are small, pre-grown sections of turf, typically two to three inches in diameter, purchased or cut from existing grass. This moderately priced method balances establishment time with material cost, allowing for relatively quick anchoring due to the mature root structure. Plugs are particularly useful for filling in smaller bare spots or establishing a new lawn incrementally.
Sprigs
Sprigs, also called runners or stolons, are stem fragments containing nodes capable of sprouting new roots and shoots. Sprigging is the most economical method for covering large areas, though it requires the longest establishment period. Harvested material should be separated from the parent plant and planted within 24 hours to prevent desiccation.
Step-by-Step Installation Techniques
The chosen material dictates the installation technique, but all methods require firm contact between the grass and the prepared soil. When planting plugs, dig holes to accommodate the depth, ensuring the turf remains level with the surrounding surface. Spacing is generally 9 to 12 inches apart, with closer spacing encouraging faster coverage.
For sprigging, scatter the vegetative pieces uniformly across the surface (broadcast sprigging). The sprigs must be pressed or lightly disked into the soil one to two inches deep, ensuring the nodes contact the moisture below. A light layer of topdressing, such as compost, can then be applied, or the area can be rolled to press the material firmly into the ground.
Laying sod involves placing the strips tightly together, staggering the seams in a brick-like pattern to prevent noticeable lines. Adjacent edges must be tightly abutted to prevent drying out and ensure a seamless appearance. After installation, roll the entire area with a lawn roller to remove air pockets and press the roots firmly against the soil bed.
Ensuring Successful Establishment
Immediate and consistent watering is the most important factor following transplanting. All newly installed material needs to be thoroughly soaked immediately after planting to settle the soil and eliminate air pockets. For the first two to four weeks, use light, frequent watering to keep the upper soil layer moist, encouraging new roots to emerge and spread.
This initial frequent watering should transition to a deeper, less frequent schedule once the grass is visibly anchored and showing new growth, aiming for about one inch of water per week. Delay mowing until the transplanted material shows sufficient anchoring or reaches a height of about two inches. The initial mow should use a sharp blade, removing no more than one-third of the leaf height to minimize stress.
Fertilization supports the aggressive spreading habit of Bermuda grass, but timing is important to avoid damaging new material. A starter fertilizer, rich in phosphorus, can be applied before or immediately after planting to promote root development. Four to six weeks after establishment, apply a high-nitrogen fertilizer to encourage lateral growth and turf density. Pre-emergent herbicides should be avoided until the new turf is fully established.