Moving a myrtle plant, such as the deciduous Crepe Myrtle or the evergreen Common Myrtle, requires careful planning to minimize stress. Successful transplantation ensures the plant’s long-term health and ornamental value. The primary goal is to preserve the root system and provide an ideal environment for re-establishment. Following specific steps for timing, excavation, replanting, and aftercare increases the likelihood of the myrtle thriving in its new location.
Optimal Timing and Site Preparation
The most favorable time for transplanting myrtle is during its dormant season, typically from late fall through early spring before new growth begins. Moving the plant while dormant reduces physiological demand, allowing energy to focus on root recovery. Avoid transplanting during periods of extreme heat, drought, or hard freeze, as these conditions increase the risk of shock.
Proper preparation of the new planting site must occur before the myrtle is removed. Dig a hole two to three times wider than the estimated root ball diameter, but no deeper. The soil at the bottom should be firm to prevent the plant from settling too deeply.
In the days leading up to the move, give the myrtle a deep watering to fully hydrate the plant. This helps the root ball hold together and reduces transplant stress.
Pruning should also be done before the move to reduce the amount of foliage the roots must support. For Crepe Myrtles, remove any crossing or weak branches, but extensive pruning is unnecessary. This pre-conditioning ensures the plant is ready for the disruption of its root system.
Excavating the Myrtle
Physical removal requires careful attention to the root ball, which must remain intact to preserve the delicate feeder roots. A general guideline for root ball size is to dig a diameter of at least 12 inches for every inch of trunk caliper, measured six inches above the soil line. Width is more important than depth for capturing the majority of fibrous roots.
Begin by using a sharp spade to slice cleanly around the perimeter of the determined root ball size, severing the roots rather than tearing them. Work systematically around the plant, pushing the spade down vertically to create a clean edge. Once the sides are cut, undercut the root ball by angling the spade inward to loosen the base.
The soil-encased root ball can be heavy, so securing it with burlap or a tarp before lifting is highly recommended. This protective wrapping prevents the root ball from crumbling during transport, a major cause of transplant failure. Carefully lift the intact root ball onto the material and move it promptly to the pre-dug hole.
Replanting in the New Location
When placing the myrtle into its new hole, ensure the plant is set at the correct depth. The top of the root ball must be level with or slightly above the surrounding grade to prevent the root collar from becoming buried. If the root ball was wrapped, carefully remove any twine, wire, or non-biodegradable material from around the trunk and the top half of the ball.
Backfill the hole using the native soil removed during excavation, avoiding excessive soil amendments that discourage roots from growing outside the planting hole. Fill the hole about halfway, then use water to settle the soil and eliminate air pockets. After the water drains, finish backfilling to the top of the root ball, gently tamping the soil for stability.
After backfilling is complete, construct a small ring of soil, or a water basin, just outside the perimeter of the root ball. This basin directs water straight down into the root zone. Give the plant its first deep watering, saturating the entire root ball and the newly backfilled soil to encourage root-to-soil contact.
Managing Post-Transplant Shock
Even with careful preparation, the myrtle will likely experience some degree of transplant shock, manifesting as wilting, leaf scorch, or premature leaf drop. This is a natural response to the loss of fine water-absorbing roots. The primary strategy for mitigating this stress is diligent, consistent moisture management throughout the first growing season.
Provide deep watering slowly and thoroughly, allowing the water to soak the entire root zone, rather than watering lightly and frequently. The goal is to keep the soil consistently moist, but not saturated or waterlogged, which can lead to root rot. Apply a two to three-inch layer of organic mulch over the planting area to conserve moisture and moderate soil temperature, keeping the mulch several inches away from the trunk.
Avoid applying nitrogen-heavy fertilizers during the first year, as this encourages top growth before the root system has fully recovered. The plant needs to prioritize root development, and excessive fertilization can hinder this process. If temporary wilting occurs during a hot day, use a temporary shade structure to reduce transpiration until the root system establishes.