Transplanting a large evergreen, such as a 6-foot pine, requires careful planning and execution to ensure the tree’s survival. Pine trees are particularly sensitive to root disturbance because their fine feeder roots reside near the surface and are easily damaged during excavation. Successfully moving a conifer of this size depends entirely on preserving an adequately sized root ball, which will be heavy and challenging to handle.
Site Selection and Timing Preparation
Successfully moving a pine tree begins with precise timing during the tree’s dormant season to minimize physiological stress. The ideal periods are late fall, after active growth has ceased, or early spring, before new buds swell. Transplanting during these cooler months allows the tree to focus energy on establishing new root growth.
The receiving location must be selected for long-term viability, providing at least six hours of direct sunlight daily and possessing well-draining soil. Pines are highly susceptible to root rot in waterlogged conditions, so ensuring excellent drainage is paramount. Before the pine is moved, the destination hole must be excavated to be two to three times wider than the anticipated root ball, but no deeper.
For a 6-foot pine, the root ball should measure approximately 28 to 32 inches in diameter to contain enough of the root structure for successful re-establishment. Digging the hole wider than the root ball allows the roots to easily penetrate the loosened soil after planting. Preparing the new site beforehand ensures the pine’s roots are not exposed to drying air for longer than necessary once it is removed from its original location.
Excavating and Protecting the Root Ball
The most delicate phase of the transplant is extracting the root ball intact, as any crumbling can compromise the tree’s ability to absorb water. Begin by marking a circle with the target diameter around the base of the pine and then digging a vertical trench outside of this line. A sharp, flat-bladed spade should be used to make clean cuts, cleanly severing the roots rather than tearing them.
Work around the circumference of the trench, digging down until you can begin to undercut the root ball, angling the spade inward to create a slightly tapered, bowl shape. For a pine of this height, the finished root ball will weigh between 580 and 850 pounds, depending on the soil type and moisture content. This mass necessitates mechanical assistance or multiple people for safe lifting and transport.
Once the ball is fully undercut, immediately wrap it in untreated burlap and secure it tightly with strong twine or specialized pinning nails. To get the burlap underneath, gently tip the root ball to one side, slide half the burlap beneath it, and then tip it to the opposite side. The tight wrapping prevents the soil from separating from the fine roots, which prevents desiccation and transplant failure.
Proper Placement and Backfilling
With the root ball secured and the receiving hole prepared, the pine must be gently placed into its new location without disturbing the soil ball. Confirm the tree’s planting depth by checking the root flare, the point where the trunk widens as it meets the roots. This flare must be visible at or slightly above the finished grade to prevent trunk rot and oxygen deprivation.
Planting the tree even a few inches too deep is one of the most common causes of long-term failure because it suffocates the root system. Once the pine is correctly positioned, begin backfilling the hole with the native soil that was removed during excavation. Avoid adding large quantities of soil amendments, as this can discourage roots from growing out into the surrounding landscape soil.
As you backfill, periodically firm the soil lightly with your foot to eliminate large air pockets, ensuring good contact between the soil and the root ball. Before the process is complete, the top third of any non-biodegradable wrapping, such as twine, wire, or treated burlap, must be removed from the top of the root ball and the trunk. Finally, use the remaining native soil to construct a temporary earth berm, creating a circular basin roughly 3 to 4 inches high around the perimeter of the planting hole, at least 12 inches away from the trunk.
Essential Post-Transplant Care
The newly planted pine requires immediate and consistent attention, as it enters a period of high stress known as transplant shock. Immediately after backfilling, completely fill the earth berm basin with water to thoroughly soak the root ball and settle the soil. During the first week, the pine should receive deep watering daily to mitigate the initial shock of root loss.
For the remainder of the first year, a consistent watering schedule is necessary, typically involving deep applications two to three times per week, adjusting for rainfall and temperature. The goal is to keep the root ball consistently moist, not saturated, to encourage new feeder roots to grow into the surrounding soil.
Applying a 3- to 4-inch layer of organic mulch, such as wood chips, over the entire planting area helps retain soil moisture and regulate temperature. The mulch should be kept a few inches away from the trunk to prevent moisture buildup that could lead to fungal infection or insect damage.
Signs of transplant shock in evergreens include the foliage developing a grey-green color or the tips of the needles turning brown. These symptoms indicate water stress that requires prompt attention.