The process of starting seeds indoors gives plants a head start on the growing season. Once germination occurs, the initial energy reserves within the seed are quickly exhausted. A tender seedling requires access to a larger supply of water, nutrients, and physical space for its root system to develop. Transplanting the germinated seed into soil provides these resources, allowing the seedling to continue its growth cycle. The goal of this delicate transfer is to minimize shock, which can stunt or halt growth.
Preparing Seedlings and Soil for the Move
Before transfer, preparation ensures the seedling can tolerate the harsher conditions of its new home. For seedlings destined for the outdoors, the most significant preparation is “hardening off.” This process gradually acclimates the plant to wind, direct sunlight, and temperature fluctuations, and typically begins seven to fourteen days before the final transplant date.
Begin hardening off by placing seedlings outside in a shaded spot for one to two hours when temperatures are above 45°F. Increase the duration of outdoor exposure daily and move the seedlings to areas receiving progressively more direct sunlight. This gradual exposure encourages the plant to develop a firmer structure better able to withstand the elements. Bring plants indoors immediately if they show signs of wilting or if temperatures drop below 45°F.
While the seedlings are hardening off, prepare the soil in the final container or garden bed. Pre-moisten the soil or potting mix to a damp but not soggy consistency. If planting into a garden, ensure the soil is loosened, free of debris, and consider amending it with compost. Preparing the site beforehand reduces the time the delicate seedlings are exposed during the transfer.
Executing the Delicate Transfer
Moving the seedling requires careful handling to avoid damaging the stem and roots. Specialized tools like a dibber (a pointed tool for creating holes) or a widger (a small, flat-bladed spoon) can assist, though a regular spoon or popsicle stick also works. The most important rule is to handle the seedling by its leaves or the soil medium, never by the fragile stem.
To begin the transfer, create a hole in the prepared soil slightly larger than the seedling’s root ball. If the seedling is in a cell pack, gently coax it out by pushing up from the bottom or tapping the container while supporting the soil ball. For “leggy” seedlings, bury the stem deeper, often up to the first set of true leaves, to encourage a stronger secondary root system, especially in plants like tomatoes. Once the root ball is lowered, gently fill the space around it with soil.
Firm the soil around the base of the seedling with light pressure to ensure good contact between the roots and the surrounding medium, eliminating air pockets. Avoid pressing too hard, as excessive compaction impedes water absorption and root growth. If the seedling was started in a biodegradable pot, plant it directly into the soil, but ensure the rim is completely covered to prevent it from wicking moisture away from the roots.
Immediate Care After Transplanting
Immediate care following the transfer is crucial for helping the seedling recover from shock. The first step is to water the newly transplanted seedlings thoroughly. This deep watering settles the soil firmly around the roots, eliminating air pockets, and provides the necessary moisture for the plant to re-establish itself.
Even after hardening off, new transplants are susceptible to sun scald and desiccation while their roots recover. For the first one to two days, place the seedlings in a location that receives shade or filtered light. This temporary reduction in light stress allows the plant to focus energy on root growth. Maintain consistent moisture, as wilting is a common sign of transplant shock, and monitor the plants regularly for distress.