Climbing roses are frequently misunderstood because they are not true climbing plants. Unlike vines that use tendrils or suction cups, roses with this growth habit produce long, rigid canes that must be manually tied and guided to grow vertically. The goal of training is to establish a permanent framework that maximizes bloom production across the entire plant rather than only at the top. Achieving a dense, flowering display on your trellis requires manipulating the rose’s natural growth pattern.
Preparing the Rose and Trellis
The success of a trained climbing rose begins with the proper support structure and timing. A trellis must be sturdy enough to bear the significant weight of a mature rose, especially after rain or during strong winds. Materials like powder-coated metal or pressure-treated wood are recommended for their durability and strength. It is best to install the trellis before planting the rose to avoid disturbing the root system once the plant is established.
Timing is an equally important element in preparing the rose for its support. The ideal time to start training new canes is when they are young and pliable, often in early spring or during the dormant winter season. Canes can be gently manipulated without snapping, which becomes increasingly difficult as they mature and stiffen. Before the first tie, remove any dead, diseased, or damaged wood from the rose to clarify the structural canes that will form the framework.
Securing Main Canes for Maximum Blooms
The fundamental technique that transforms a few flowers at the top into a spectacular display is horizontal training of the main canes. Rose canes contain a growth hormone called auxin, which is concentrated at the tip of the vertical shoot, causing the plant to prioritize upward growth. When a cane is secured to a support at a near-horizontal angle, the flow of this hormone is interrupted and distributed more evenly along the cane’s length.
This redistribution breaks the plant’s natural tendency toward apical dominance, causing dormant buds all along the cane to sprout. These new growths, called lateral shoots, are the secondary canes that will produce the majority of the flowers. Aim to secure the main canes at an angle between 45 and 90 degrees from the vertical, fanning them out across the trellis to cover the maximum surface area.
Avoid using rigid wire or thin string, which can girdle the cane as it expands in thickness. Instead, use soft materials like natural jute twine, fabric strips, or flexible garden Velcro. The ties should be looped loosely around the cane and the trellis, allowing at least a half-inch of space for the cane to swell over the growing season.
Seasonal Care and Pruning
Training a climbing rose is a continuous process that extends beyond setting the initial structural canes on the trellis. Throughout the growing season, new, flexible lateral shoots will emerge from the horizontally trained framework. These secondary canes should be lightly guided and woven through the trellis or tied in to fill any empty spaces. Regularly inspect all existing ties, particularly during periods of rapid growth, to ensure they have not become too tight and are not cutting into the thickening main canes.
Annual pruning is performed during the rose’s dormant period, typically in late winter or early spring. The main, thick structural canes that are tied horizontally to the trellis should generally be left untouched, as they form the permanent framework of the plant. Only remove these main canes if they are clearly dead, diseased, or completely unproductive.
The flowering lateral shoots, however, require annual reduction to encourage vigorous reblooming and maintain the plant’s shape. Prune these side shoots back to a length of about 4 to 6 inches, leaving two to four outward-facing buds on each one. This selective pruning redirects the plant’s energy into producing a new flush of flowers on the established horizontal framework.