The process of staking tomato plants elevates the foliage and fruit, which is a necessary practice for most home gardeners, especially those growing large, vining varieties. This support prevents the fruit from resting on the damp soil, significantly reducing the risk of ground-borne diseases and fruit rot. By keeping the plant upright and contained, air circulation around the leaves and stems improves, which helps to manage fungal issues. Furthermore, a strong stake guards the main stem against snapping or being damaged by high winds or the heavy weight of a mature fruit set.
Choosing the Right Support Materials
The selection of support materials depends primarily on the tomato variety being grown, categorized as either determinate or indeterminate. Determinate varieties grow to a fixed, compact height and require shorter stakes. Indeterminate varieties continue to grow and produce fruit until frost, often needing stakes that are six to eight feet tall. Sturdy materials like galvanized steel rebar, heavy wooden posts (such as 2×2 cedar), or thick bamboo canes are preferred for their stability under the weight of a full harvest.
The material used to tie the plant to the stake is equally important and must be soft and pliable to avoid damaging the plant’s epidermis. Acceptable options include soft garden twine, specialized plastic plant ties, or strips of cloth torn from old t-shirts or pantyhose. Thin materials such as fishing line or bare wire should be avoided, as they can easily cut into the growing stem and girdle the plant, restricting the flow of nutrients and water. A quality tie material will stretch or offer enough width to distribute the pressure as the stem thickens throughout the season.
Placing Stakes and Initial Setup
The timing for installing the support structure is crucial and should ideally happen when the plant is first transplanted or when it is still small, generally under 12 inches tall. Placing the stake later can result in serious damage to the plant’s delicate and expanding root system. The stake should be driven into the ground at a distance of about four to six inches away from the main tomato stem.
For maximum stability, especially with tall indeterminate varieties, the support should be pounded at least 12 inches into the soil. For stakes seven to eight feet tall, burying 18 to 24 inches helps ensure the structure will not lean or topple once the plant is heavy with fruit. The stake should be positioned on the side of the plant opposite the prevailing wind direction, if possible, to provide the greatest resistance against strong gusts.
Step-by-Step Tying Methods
The most effective way to secure the tomato stem is by using the figure-eight loop, which creates a protective buffer between the stem and the rigid stake. First, tie one end of the soft tying material securely around the stake with a knot that will not slip. The tie should be positioned just beneath a leaf node or a branch junction, as this is the strongest point on the stem and provides the best leverage for support.
Next, bring the loose end of the tie forward and loop it around the main stem, crossing the tie over itself to form the figure-eight shape. This crossover point creates a cushion, ensuring the stem does not rub directly against the stake as it sways in the wind. Leave two to three inches of slack inside the loop around the stem to accommodate the plant’s natural increase in girth. Finally, secure the loose end of the tie back onto the stake with a second, tight knot to lock the figure-eight shape into place.
Ongoing Maintenance and Adjustments
As the tomato plant grows rapidly, new ties must be added frequently to ensure continuous, upward support. A new tie should be placed every 8 to 12 inches of vertical growth along the main stem. Regular inspection of all existing ties is necessary to check for any signs of constriction where the stem has swollen against the tie material.
If a tie appears to be cutting into the stem, it must be immediately loosened or replaced with a new, looser loop to prevent damage that would impede nutrient delivery. Another adjustment involves managing lateral growth by pruning the small shoots, known as suckers. Removing these suckers helps to concentrate the plant’s energy toward fruit production and reduces the overall foliage mass. This reduction decreases the load on the stake and further improves air circulation.