Tying an orchid to a tree closely mimics its natural habit, providing a suitable environment for long-term health and growth. Many orchid species, such as Cattleya, Vanda, and Dendrobium, are epiphytes, meaning they naturally grow upon other plants or trees for physical support, not for nutrients. These species thrive when their specialized aerial roots, which possess a spongy outer layer called velamen, are exposed to air, allowing them to rapidly absorb moisture and nutrients from the environment. Mounting them onto a tree prevents the root rot common in potted orchids and encourages the free-flowing air circulation they require.
Essential Preparation Before Tying
Selecting the correct host tree and preparing the orchid are fundamental steps for a successful mount. The ideal tree should have rough, textured bark, which provides a better surface for the orchid’s roots to grip. Trees like oaks, citrus, or other hardwoods with rugged bark are suitable, but avoid species with smooth bark or those that excrete toxic sap. The host tree must be well-established and healthy to ensure a stable environment.
Before mounting, remove the orchid from its pot and clean the roots of all potting medium, such as bark or sphagnum moss. Carefully trim away any dead or decaying roots to promote new growth and prevent rot. For securing the plant, use non-damaging materials like natural fiber twine, strips of cloth, or jute, which will eventually biodegrade. Non-biodegradable options like plastic ties must be monitored and removed later to prevent girdling the orchid’s rhizome or pseudobulbs.
Strategic Placement on the Tree
The location on the tree determines the orchid’s access to light, water, and air movement. Placement must meet the specific light needs of the species; for example, a sun-loving Vanda needs more direct light than a shade-preferring Cattleya. Generally, position the orchid to receive morning sun and protection from the harsh afternoon sun, often achieved by placing it on the north or east side of a tree trunk.
Good air circulation is paramount, which is why horizontal branches, limb crotches, or the main trunk are often preferred locations. Look for areas where rainwater naturally trickles down, often identified by a slightly darker color on the bark. This natural flow ensures the orchid receives adequate moisture without the roots remaining saturated for too long.
Step-by-Step Tying Technique
The attachment of the orchid to the tree must be secure enough to prevent any movement. Position the orchid with its base, or the rhizome, flat against the bark, ensuring the roots are spread out to maximize contact. Orient the plant so that the new growth points face upwards and the roots face downwards to encourage healthy growth and allow water to drain properly.
If you are concerned about humidity during the establishment phase, a thin layer of sphagnum moss can be placed directly behind the root mass as a temporary moisture cushion. Wrap the chosen tying material firmly around the orchid’s base, anchoring the plant where the roots meet the stem. The ties must secure the plant tightly enough that it cannot shift in the wind, but they must not cut into the pseudobulbs or leaves. Finish the knot on the backside or underside of the tree trunk or branch, keeping it away from the plant’s delicate tissues.
Monitoring and Long-Term Root Attachment
Post-installation care focuses on ensuring the orchid does not dry out while its roots begin to anchor themselves. During the first two weeks, water the mounted orchid daily, usually through heavy misting or soaking, to encourage new roots to emerge. Once the orchid begins to establish, this watering frequency can be gradually reduced, as the plant will start to rely more on ambient moisture.
The successful transition is indicated by the appearance of new, firm roots growing directly into the bark, which will often have bright green tips. This rooting process typically takes six to twelve months, depending on the species and environmental conditions. Remove the temporary ties only once the plant is firmly anchored and can support its own weight without assistance. Leaving them on for too long can lead to girdling, which restricts growth and nutrient flow.