A plant clipping, or cutting, is a segment taken from a parent plant used to generate an entirely new, independent specimen. This process is a method of asexual propagation, meaning it does not involve seeds or sexual reproduction. The goal is to produce a genetic clone, ensuring the new plant possesses the exact desirable characteristics—such as flower color or growth habit—of its source. This technique bypasses the genetic variability that occurs when propagating with seeds, allowing for the consistent replication of a favored plant.
Essential Preparation and Timing
Successful propagation begins by ensuring tools are ready and clean. Sharpness is paramount, so select a sterile, razor-sharp instrument like a clean razor blade, a grafting knife, or fine-tipped shears to ensure a clean cut without crushing the plant tissue. Before use, sanitize the cutting tool thoroughly, typically with a solution of rubbing alcohol or a 10% bleach solution, to eliminate any pathogens. This prevents the transfer of infection from previous plants.
The timing of the cut influences the cutting’s ability to root successfully. The best time of day to take a cutting is usually in the early morning. At this time, the plant’s stems are fully turgid, meaning they contain the maximum amount of water after the cooler night. The best season depends on the maturity of the stem material: softwood cuttings, taken from the current season’s soft, flexible growth, are best taken from mid-spring to early summer when the plant is actively growing. Semi-hardwood cuttings, which are slightly firmer, are generally taken during the summer months.
Making the Cut (Technique and Placement)
The location of the cut is important for encouraging root growth. Roots on a cutting primarily develop from a point on the stem known as a node, where a leaf or a side shoot emerges. The node contains a higher concentration of naturally occurring growth hormones, called auxins, which are responsible for initiating new root formation.
The cut should be made cleanly and precisely just below a node, typically within a quarter to a half-inch of the joint. This ensures the highest concentration of root-producing cells is present at the base of the new specimen. The ideal length for most stem cuttings falls within a range of about three to six inches, ensuring the cutting has enough stored energy and leaf surface to sustain itself until roots form.
Use the sharp, sterilized tool to slice the stem at a 45-degree angle. This diagonal cut increases the exposed surface area of the stem. A greater surface area allows for maximum absorption of water and rooting hormone. Always select a healthy, non-flowering stem tip for the cutting, as a plant that is focused on producing flowers will divert energy away from forming new roots.
Immediate Care and Rooting Preparation
The first step involves reducing the cutting’s surface area to manage transpiration stress. Remove any leaves from the lower half of the stem, and pinch off any existing flower buds or flowers. This directs the plant’s limited energy reserves toward the base of the stem to initiate root development.
If the cutting cannot be placed into the rooting medium immediately, temporarily submerge the cut end in a small glass of water. This prevents air bubbles from forming within the stem’s vascular system, which can block water uptake and cause the tissue to dry out. The cutting is now ready for treatment with a rooting hormone, which often contains synthetic auxins like indole-3-butyric acid (IBA).
To apply the hormone, pour a small amount of powder or gel into a separate, clean container to avoid contaminating the main product container. Moisten the cut end of the stem slightly, then dip the bottom inch of the cutting into the hormone. Use a pencil or a small dowel to poke a hole into the pre-moistened, sterile rooting medium—such as perlite, coarse sand, or a soil-less mix—before inserting the cutting. Creating this pilot hole prevents the rooting hormone from being scraped off the stem as it is inserted.