Succulents, celebrated for their thick, fleshy leaves and stems, have become popular houseplants because of their drought-tolerant nature. These plants are uniquely adapted to store water, which allows them to survive in arid environments. Their ability to retain moisture means that a primary focus of their care is managing the conditions that allow them to dry out effectively. Understanding their native survival mechanisms is the first step toward successfully cultivating these plants in a home setting.
The Golden Rule of Watering
The biggest threat to a succulent is excess water, which leads to fatal root rot. To prevent this, use the “soak and dry” technique, which mimics the flash floods and long dry spells of their natural habitats. This involves thoroughly saturating the soil until water flows from the drainage hole, then allowing the soil to dry out completely before watering again.
Never water on a set schedule. Check the soil moisture deeply, only watering when the soil is bone dry from top to bottom. During winter, many succulents enter a period of dormancy where their metabolic processes slow. Watering should be drastically reduced or paused entirely during this time to prevent roots from sitting in cold, moist soil.
The plant provides visual cues when it is truly thirsty. A well-hydrated succulent has firm, plump leaves, but an underwatered one will develop wrinkled or shriveled foliage. These signs mean it is safe to water, and the plant should return to its plump state within a day or two after soaking.
Optimal Light and Placement
Succulents require significant light exposure, needing a minimum of four to six hours of bright light daily to maintain compact, healthy growth. Indoors, placing a plant in a south-facing window is often ideal, as this location receives the longest duration of intense light. East-facing windows also provide excellent morning sun, which is gentler.
If a succulent is not receiving enough light, it will begin to “stretch” or etiolate. This process causes the stem to elongate and the space between the leaves to widen as the plant searches for light. This new growth is weak and pale, and the stretching is permanent. Conversely, direct, intense afternoon sun can cause sunburn, particularly if the plant has not been acclimated slowly.
Sunburn manifests as permanent brown, black, or bleached white patches on the leaves. To supplement natural light, a full-spectrum LED grow light can be used, positioned six to twelve inches above the plant’s rosette. Running a grow light for twelve to fourteen hours daily prevents etiolation and promotes vibrant color development.
Selecting Proper Soil and Containers
The container environment is important for long-term health. Succulent roots are highly susceptible to rot when exposed to prolonged moisture, making fast-draining soil necessary. Standard potting soil retains too much water and must be amended heavily to increase porosity.
An effective mixture combines one part standard potting soil with one part inorganic material like perlite, pumice, or coarse horticultural sand. These porous amendments create air pockets, allowing water to flow through quickly and promoting rapid drying. This rapid drainage prevents the oxygen deprivation that leads to root death.
The container must include a functional drainage hole, as no soil mix can compensate for water pooling at the base. Unglazed terracotta pots are a good choice because their porous clay wicks excess moisture through the sides. This wicking action helps the soil dry faster than in non-porous materials like plastic or glazed ceramic.
Identifying and Treating Common Issues
Even with proper routine care, succulents can occasionally face issues requiring corrective action. Two common pests are mealybugs and scale, which are soft-bodied insects that feed on the plant’s sap. Mealybugs appear as small, white, cottony masses nestled in the crevices between leaves and stems.
Scale insects are harder to spot, appearing as small, immovable brown or tan bumps on the leaves and stems. Both pests can be treated by dipping a cotton swab in 70% isopropyl rubbing alcohol and dabbing it directly onto the insects, which dissolves their protective coating. For widespread infestations, a systemic application of neem oil can be sprayed onto the entire plant, but keep the plant out of direct sunlight afterward to prevent leaf burn.
Root rot is a life-threatening symptom of overwatering, appearing as a mushy, black, or translucent discoloration starting at the stem base. To salvage a rotting plant, immediately sever the healthy upper portion from the diseased stem using a sterilized blade. Allow the cutting to air dry for several days until the cut end forms a protective callous. Once calloused, the cutting can be placed on dry succulent soil to develop new roots.