Chrysanthemums, commonly known as mums, are vibrant decorative plants often purchased for their striking fall colors. These potted beauties require specific care to thrive, whether intended for a brief indoor display or for long-term outdoor survival. Understanding the daily requirements, maintenance routines, and post-flowering transitions is key to keeping these plants healthy and extending their colorful lifespan. This guidance will help you maintain your potted mum’s health from the moment you bring it home through its dormant period.
Meeting Essential Daily Needs
Potted mums require bright, consistent light to maintain their compact shape and vibrant blooms. If kept indoors, they should be placed near a south-facing window to receive several hours of bright, indirect sunlight daily. Direct, intense midday sun can scorch the delicate flowers and foliage, so protection during the hottest part of the day is beneficial. Insufficient light causes the plant to become “leggy,” stretching its stems and producing fewer flowers.
Consistent moisture is important for potted mums. The soil should be kept uniformly moist but never waterlogged, as these plants are susceptible to root rot. Use the “finger test,” watering thoroughly when the top one to two inches of the potting mix feels dry to the touch. Ensure the pot has proper drainage holes, allowing excess water to escape completely.
The potting mix should be well-draining and rich in organic matter to provide necessary aeration and retention. During the active growth phase in spring and summer, mums benefit from a balanced liquid fertilizer, such as a 20-10-20 formulation. If the mum is purchased in full bloom, it is best to discontinue or significantly reduce feeding, as the plant’s energy is focused on flowering.
Maintenance for Extended Blooming
The most direct way to prolong the display of color is through deadheading. This involves removing spent or faded flowers, which prevents the plant from using energy to produce seeds. By interrupting the reproductive cycle, the plant redirects resources toward developing new buds, encouraging a longer bloom period.
To deadhead, use clean snips or your fingers to remove the entire flower head and its short stem, cutting back to the first healthy set of leaves or a leaf node. This technique keeps the plant tidy and prevents the accumulation of decaying matter, which can harbor pests or fungal issues. Inspecting the plant weekly for fading blooms allows for continuous maintenance.
Pinching is a technique used earlier in the season to create a bushier, fuller plant structure. Pinching involves removing the new growth tip of a stem, which encourages the plant to branch out laterally. This practice is performed repeatedly until mid-summer to ensure a dense canopy that supports numerous flowers. Light pruning can be used to shape the plant during its vegetative stage, but heavy cutting should be avoided during peak blooming.
Transitioning Mums After Flowering
Once the flowers have faded and the foliage begins to brown, the potted mum is ready for transition into dormancy or planting. If the plant is a hardy garden variety and your climate allows, transplanting it into the ground is the most successful option for long-term survival. Plant the mum in a well-draining, sunny location, ensuring the roots establish before a hard freeze.
Before a hard frost, cut the stems back drastically to a height of four to six inches above the soil line. This post-bloom pruning prepares the plant for winter and removes dead material that could host pests or disease. If transplanting is not possible, or if the mum is a less hardy florist variety, it can be overwintered in its pot.
To overwinter a potted mum, move it to a cool, dark, protected area, such as an unheated garage, shed, or cold frame. Temperatures should remain consistently between 32°F and 50°F, allowing the plant to stay dormant without freezing completely. Water sparingly during this time, providing just enough moisture every few weeks to prevent the soil from drying out. The goal is to keep the roots barely moist until new growth emerges in the spring.
Identifying and Solving Care Problems
Potted mums can encounter several common issues, often stemming from environmental stress. A frequent problem is an infestation of sap-sucking pests like aphids, spider mites, or whiteflies. These insects cluster on new growth or the undersides of leaves, and simple organic treatments are effective. An application of insecticidal soap or neem oil can disrupt their lifecycle and manage the population.
Fungal diseases, such as powdery mildew, often appear as a white or grayish dust on the leaves. This is caused by high humidity and poor air circulation, especially when water sits on the foliage. To prevent this, water the soil directly at the base of the plant, avoiding the leaves, and ensure the pot is not crowded by other plants.
Visual symptoms of watering issues are easily identifiable cues for correction. Yellowing leaves, especially on the lower parts of the plant, signal overwatering and potential root rot. Conversely, wilting, drooping stems, or browning edges indicate the plant is underwatered and needs a deep soaking. Adjusting the watering frequency based on the soil’s dryness, rather than a fixed schedule, is the best way to maintain plant health.