How to Take Care of a Peace Lily Indoors

The Peace Lily, botanically known as Spathiphyllum, is a popular indoor plant prized for its deep green, glossy foliage and elegant white blooms. This tropical evergreen is celebrated for being relatively low-maintenance, making it a favorite for houseplant enthusiasts. A unique characteristic of the Peace Lily is its dramatic communication style, as the plant clearly signals its needs, particularly for water, by visibly drooping its leaves. Understanding how to read these signals and provide the right environment ensures this plant will thrive indoors.

Optimal Environmental Conditions

The ideal placement for a Peace Lily mimics its native environment on the tropical forest floor, where it receives filtered light. The plant performs best in bright, indirect light, such as a few feet from an east or north-facing window. While it can tolerate low-light conditions, insufficient light will significantly reduce the plant’s ability to produce its characteristic white flowers. Direct sun exposure must be avoided, as the intense midday light can easily scorch the leaves, leading to brown or yellow patches.

Maintaining a consistent temperature is also important for the health of the Peace Lily. The plant prefers warm conditions, with an ideal temperature range between 65°F and 80°F (18°C and 27°C). It is sensitive to cold, so temperatures consistently below 60°F can cause damage. Because the Spathiphyllum is a tropical species, it appreciates moderate to high humidity levels. You can increase the moisture in the air around the plant by grouping it with other houseplants, misting the leaves periodically, or placing the pot on a pebble tray filled with water.

Watering and Nutritional Needs

Watering is the most common challenge for Peace Lily owners, but the plant offers a clear indication of when it is thirsty. The leaves will begin to visibly wilt or “droop” when the soil has dried out sufficiently. While this dramatic display indicates a need for water, it is best not to wait until the plant is fully collapsed to administer moisture, as this stresses the roots.

Instead, check the soil moisture by inserting a finger about one inch deep; if the soil feels dry at that depth, it is time to water. When watering, soak the soil thoroughly until water freely flows from the drainage holes. Immediately discard any excess water that collects in the saucer to prevent the roots from sitting in stagnant water and developing rot. Using room-temperature water is recommended, and if you have heavily chlorinated tap water, allowing it to sit out overnight can help chemicals dissipate.

Peace Lilies are not heavy feeders and are easily harmed by over-fertilization. For optimal growth and blooming, apply a balanced liquid houseplant fertilizer once every six to eight weeks, exclusively during the active growing season of spring and summer. Dilute the fertilizer to a quarter or half of the strength suggested on the product label to prevent the buildup of mineral salts. Cease all fertilization during the fall and winter months when the plant’s growth naturally slows down.

Addressing Common Health Signals

The appearance of brown leaf tips is a frequent issue, often a result of over-fertilization or the buildup of salts from tap water. To correct this, you should flush the soil by pouring a large volume of plain water through the pot to wash out excess minerals. Switching to filtered or distilled water can also prevent future chemical burn on the foliage.

Yellowing leaves, particularly on older, lower foliage, can be a sign of natural aging, but a sudden onset across the plant usually signals a watering or light issue. Too much direct light can cause a bleached, pale yellow appearance, while overwatering leading to root rot can also cause leaves to turn yellow and wilt. If the yellowing is widespread, check the soil moisture and move the plant to a location with softer, indirect light.

When a Peace Lily fails to produce its characteristic white spathes, the primary cause is almost always insufficient light. If the plant is healthy but not blooming, relocating it to a brighter spot with more indirect light will encourage flower production. Ensuring a consistent, light feeding schedule during the spring and summer will also provide the necessary energy for the plant to create new blooms.