Indeterminate tomato plants are often called “vining” types because they continue to grow, flower, and produce fruit throughout the entire season until the first frost. Unlike determinate varieties, these vines can easily reach heights of six to twelve feet, requiring substantial support. Providing a sturdy structure prevents the fruit from resting on the soil, which reduces the risk of rot, pest damage, and soil-borne diseases. Keeping the foliage off the ground also improves air circulation, preventing common fungal issues like blight and powdery mildew.
Staking and Caging
Staking is a method favored by gardeners who prefer to limit the plant’s growth to a single or double main stem, allowing for closer planting and maximizing vertical space. Use a durable material like metal, wood, or bamboo that is at least six feet tall. The stake should be driven into the ground six to eight inches from the base of the plant, ideally when the tomato seedling is first transplanted to avoid damaging the root system. As the plant grows, the main stem must be tied to the stake with soft material at regular intervals, a task that requires frequent maintenance.
Caging offers an alternative support system, allowing the plant to grow wider and requiring less frequent tying than staking. The flimsy, cone-shaped wire cages commonly sold at garden centers are usually too small for the size and weight of indeterminate varieties. Successful caging requires a heavy-duty structure, preferably at least five feet tall with an eighteen-inch diameter, often made from concrete reinforcement mesh or thick wire fencing. The cage must be installed around the plant early in the season, pushing the legs firmly into the ground to ensure the structure remains stable under the full weight of a mature, fruit-laden vine.
Trellising and Row Weaving
Trellising systems are designed for supporting multiple plants in a row, using strong end posts to anchor horizontal wires or cords. One efficient technique for supporting indeterminate tomatoes is the “Florida Weave,” also called the basket weave method. This technique involves sandwiching the plants between two parallel lines of twine, which holds the vines upright without requiring individual ties.
The process begins by installing sturdy support posts, such as T-posts or heavy-duty wooden stakes, at both ends of the row. Additional stakes are placed every two to three plants down the line. The first line of durable twine is tied securely to an end post approximately eight inches above the ground. The twine is then woven down the row, passing in front of one plant and behind the next, wrapping once or twice around each internal stake for stability.
Upon reaching the opposite end post, the twine is wrapped and reversed, running back down the row on the opposite side of the plants. This creates a pair of parallel strings that secure each plant stem between them. As the tomato plants continue to grow, new layers of twine must be added every eight to twelve inches up the stakes. Repeating the back-and-forth weaving pattern provides continuous lateral support, keeping the entire row contained and preventing the vines from leaning.
Training the Vine: Pruning and Securing
Managing the plant’s growth habit is necessary for success, primarily through pruning and proper securing. The focus of pruning indeterminate tomatoes is the removal of “suckers,” which are small shoots that emerge where a leaf branch meets the main stem (the axil). Removing most suckers redirects the plant’s energy from vegetative growth to developing larger, higher-quality fruit on one or two main stems, known as leaders.
This process, called “suckering,” creates a less bushy plant, which improves air circulation and light penetration, reducing the risk of disease. Suckers should be pinched off when they are small, ideally less than two inches long, to minimize the wound. It is recommended to remove all suckers below the first flower cluster, though some gardeners leave the strongest sucker below that cluster to develop a secondary leader.
When tying the main stem to a stake or trellis, the choice of material and technique is important to prevent stem damage. Soft materials such as specialized plant ties, cloth strips, or Velcro tape should be used, as thin twine or wire can cut into the stem as it thickens. The most effective method is the “figure-eight” tie, where the material crosses between the stake and the stem, creating a loose loop around both to allow for stem expansion without girdling. Tying should be done preemptively, securing the stem to the support every eight to twelve inches before the weight of the plant causes it to lean or break.