Rose transplanting is best done during the plant’s dormant season, typically in late fall or early spring. However, sometimes circumstances require the move to happen during the summer months. Moving an actively growing rose during high heat and intense sunlight is a high-risk operation, demanding specialized techniques to ensure survival. Success relies on minimizing the plant’s stress and compensating for the inevitable damage to the root system through continuous moisture and temperature management.
Understanding the Risks of Summer Transplanting
Transplanting a rose when it is actively growing creates immediate water stress for the plant. The fine, delicate feeder roots responsible for absorbing water and nutrients are damaged or severed during the move. Simultaneously, the rose’s foliage continues to lose moisture through transpiration at a high rate, driven by the summer heat and sun.
This imbalance means the remaining, compromised root system cannot supply enough water to the leaves, leading to a condition known as transplant shock. The plant’s energy is redirected from growth and flowering to simply trying to regenerate its root structure. High temperatures also increase the metabolic rate, accelerating water loss and nutrient demand when uptake is severely disrupted.
Pre-Transplant Preparation and Timing
Preparation begins one to two weeks before the planned move to “harden” the plant. This involves severely pruning the rose’s canes to reduce the above-ground mass by one-half to two-thirds. Removing this foliage is necessary to reduce the leaf surface area, which directly lowers the plant’s transpiration rate and water demand.
Pruning ensures the reduced root ball will be able to supply the necessary moisture to the remaining stems and leaves. A week prior to the move, begin deeply saturating the soil around the rose daily. This deep watering fully hydrates the plant’s cells, minimizing shock and making the soil cohesive to help the root ball hold together during the lift.
While the rose is being prepared, the new planting location must also be made ready. Dig a hole that is at least twice the width of the expected root ball and the same depth. Amending the soil removed from the hole with compost or well-rotted manure improves drainage and provides a nutrient-rich medium for new root growth. The actual move should be scheduled for the coolest part of the day, either very early morning or late evening, to avoid the peak heat and solar radiation.
The Essential Steps of Moving the Rose
The goal during the move is to preserve the root ball as intact as possible, which contains the remaining functional feeder roots. For a mature rose bush, use a sharp spade to cut a circle in the soil around the plant, typically with a diameter of 15 to 18 inches. The circle size should be proportional to the size of the bush, aiming to maximize the retained root mass.
Push the spade straight down to cleanly sever the longer roots, working slowly around the entire perimeter. Once the circle is cut, angle the spade inward at about 45 degrees to cut underneath the root ball, gently prying the mass loose from the subsoil. For larger bushes, slide burlap or a sturdy tarp under the root ball before lifting to keep the soil contained and prevent crumbling.
Immediately move the root ball to the prepared hole, minimizing the time the roots are exposed to air and sun. Set the rose at the same depth it was previously growing, ensuring the graft union remains at or slightly above the soil line, depending on your climate. Backfill the hole with the amended soil, gently firming it around the root ball to eliminate air pockets that can dry out the roots.
Intensive Post-Transplant Care
Immediately after replanting, the rose requires an intensive and sustained watering regimen. The first watering must be a deep saturation to settle the soil and fully hydrate the remaining roots, soaking the area to a depth of at least one foot. For the first two weeks, monitor the soil daily and keep it consistently moist, but not waterlogged, as the roots work to re-establish themselves.
Within an hour of planting, apply a thick layer of organic mulch, such as wood chips or shredded bark, around the base of the plant. This layer should be 3 to 4 inches deep, but kept a few inches away from the rose’s canes to prevent rot. The mulch regulates soil temperature and reduces evaporation from the surface, conserving valuable moisture.
The newly moved rose is susceptible to sun scald and desiccation, so temporary shading is necessary. Erect a shade cloth or use a temporary screen to provide filtered light, especially during the hottest hours of the day, for the first seven to ten days. This shading mitigates leaf burn and reduces the plant’s temperature, allowing the compromised roots to catch up with the foliage’s immediate water needs.