Dogwood trees (Cornus species), especially the popular flowering dogwood (Cornus florida), are valued landscape additions known for their distinctive blossoms and attractive fall color. Transplanting an established dogwood is considered high-risk compared to many other trees because its naturally shallow, fibrous root system is highly prone to desiccation and disturbance. Success is attainable through meticulous planning and execution that minimizes the tree’s exposure to stress. The likelihood of a successful move depends entirely on carefully preserving the root ball and ensuring the tree remains dormant until replanted.
Determining the Best Time and Location
The optimal time for relocating a dogwood tree is during its dormant period, either in late fall after the leaves have dropped or in early spring before the buds begin to swell. Moving the tree during dormancy ensures the plant is not actively expending energy on new growth, thereby reducing the shock experienced during root severance. Transplanting outside of this window, especially when the tree is in full leaf, often causes significant damage and leads to failure.
Selecting an appropriate new site is important for long-term survival, as dogwoods have specific environmental needs. They thrive best in locations that provide partial shade, mimicking their natural understory habitat. The ideal spot offers protection from intense afternoon sunlight, which can scorch the bark and leaves. The soil must be well-drained and slightly acidic, ideally within a pH range of 5.5 to 7.0, to prevent standing water that leads to root rot.
Preparing the Tree for Relocation
Preparing the dogwood for its move requires focusing on the root system to maximize the amount of intact feeder roots salvaged. The size of the root ball is determined by the trunk’s caliper, which is the diameter measured six inches above the soil line for smaller trees. A general guideline suggests the root ball diameter should be ten to twelve inches for every inch of trunk caliper.
If time allows, root pruning should be performed several months before the actual move, often the autumn prior to a spring transplant. This involves digging a trench just outside the desired root ball perimeter, severing outward-growing roots to encourage new, fibrous roots to form closer to the trunk.
For an immediate move, define the root ball perimeter by using a sharp spade to cut vertically around the calculated circumference. The goal of this initial trenching is to sever the roots cleanly, creating a defined soil mass that contains the bulk of the tree’s supportive root structure. Carefully cutting around the perimeter minimizes damage to the fine feeder roots located near the trunk, which are responsible for absorbing water and nutrients.
Executing the Transplanting Procedure
Once the perimeter is trenched, the final digging process must be executed carefully to keep the root ball completely intact. Digging should proceed underneath the root ball at an angle, gently undercutting the soil until the entire mass is loose. Dogwoods are typically shallow-rooted, which simplifies the depth requirement but makes the root ball heavier and more vulnerable to breaking apart.
To prevent the soil from crumbling during transport, the intact root ball must be secured immediately after lifting it from the hole. Wrap the entire soil mass tightly with burlap and secure it with twine or rope to maintain structural integrity. This wrapping provides support for the sensitive roots and protects them from air exposure, which causes rapid desiccation.
The new planting hole should be prepared before the tree is moved, ensuring the dogwood is out of the ground for the shortest time possible. The hole must be two to three times wider than the diameter of the root ball, but the depth should be no deeper than the height of the root ball. Planting the tree too deeply can smother the roots and impede necessary gas exchange.
Place the tree in the center of the new hole, ensuring the root flare—the point where the trunk widens at the base—is visible and slightly above the surrounding soil grade. After positioning, the burlap and twine should be removed or peeled back from the top and sides of the root ball, especially if the material is synthetic. Backfill the hole gently with the original soil, tamping lightly to eliminate large air pockets without overly compacting the soil.
Ensuring Post-Move Establishment
The first year after transplanting is a recovery period where the dogwood must focus on re-establishing its root system in the new location. The most important post-move action is providing deep and consistent watering, as dogwoods are highly susceptible to drying out. Immediately after planting, the tree should receive a thorough soaking to settle the soil around the roots.
For the initial weeks, keep the soil around the root ball uniformly moist but never waterlogged, which can lead to root rot. Water deeply once or twice a week, depending on temperature and rainfall, aiming to moisten the entire depth of the root ball and the surrounding soil. Deep watering encourages the roots to grow outward into the surrounding soil.
Apply a two to three-inch layer of organic mulch, such as wood chips or shredded hardwood, across the planting area to conserve soil moisture and moderate temperature. Keep the mulch several inches away from the trunk’s base to prevent moisture accumulation against the bark, which encourages disease and rot. Monitoring for signs of transplant shock, such as wilting or leaf scorch, is necessary, though this stress often resolves itself by the following spring with proper care.